Rogviler

I missed this, thanks to all the "Notices" nonsense at the top of the forum. I guess I should scroll down more often...

You shouldn't have any problem with a remanufactured distributor. Distributors themselves rarely go bad, and all the insides that do go bad should be replaced as part of the remanufacturing process.

I've noticed that some fuel pump relays prime when you first turn the key on and some don't. I don't think that matters a whole lot, so I wouldn't worry about it if it doesn't. But if the relay isn't operating during cranking then something to do with that circuit would still be my focus.

It's possible that you have a cracked solder joint in the fuel pump relay. Sometimes you can see them, but a lot of times you can't just because of how they crack so finely that it looks like it's still one piece. If you're good with a soldering iron you can pop it open and go over all the big solder points, especially the ones that basically connect the circuit board to the pins that go into the fuse box.

I believe the ICU is by the ECU up under the glovebox. It's a little plate probably 2" square with a black rectangle on it and a bunch of pins that go to a connector.

One thing that's handy is taking the cover off the fuel pump relay and having someone turn the key so you can see if it operates, especially during cranking. I would definitely verify if it's working or not. That'll tell you a lot.

And of course don't rule out a loose wire on the underside of the fuse box or a broken wire somewhere between the distributor and the relay.

-Rog

mt6127

the fast way to test the fuel pump relay is to remove the relay and jumper between the two large spades. That should should allow the fuel pump to go on without the engine turning over. If you hear the pump kick on, try cranking (this has a secondary benefit of pressurizing the fuel lines too, particularly if the car has been sitting or has some suspect pressure regulators). If the car starts, remove the jumper and replace the relay. If it doesn't start then you either have a relay issue or the hall sensor issue.

8valvegrowl

Hrmm, well the plot thickens. Soon after I posted that, I tested the hall sensor, and it checks out (power from the dizzy harness, correct voltages/resistance when the sensor is open/closed, etc).

The car runs fine if I jumper the ignition side of the relay terminal to the fuel pump input in the fuse box.

Put a brandy-new relay in, just cranks and cranks, no power to the fuel pump.

It just seems weird that the car will run just fine with the fuel pump jumpered.

8valvegrowl

Hrmm, opened up my "new" relay and found this.

Rogviler

Wow. Yeah, that would definitely cause the relay to not work.

You can return it, I hope? Did you by any chance check the old one for cracked solder joints or anything?

-Rog

8valvegrowl

They took it back, no questions asked. New one should be here tomorrow AM. I.didn't fool with the old one...I modified it with no success.

8valvegrowl

And she runs!

Just in time for all the snow we got last night.

Thanks for the tips!