CV joint boot q's
09-19-2005, 05:22 AM
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CV joint boot q's
The front right outer CV joint busted on my 4kq. I have a boot repair kit and looked up the replacement procedure in the Bentley.
Is it really that easy? Disconnect the inner CV joint from the tranny, angle the wheel, remove the hub nut, and pull it out? Also, given that the rubber boot is ripped, will the CV joint just come apart or will I need to press/hammer things apart? BTDTs?
I can handle the job but the car is my daily and I can't really afford for it to be indisposed for more than an afternoon + evening, so I'd like to avoid unpleasant procedural surprises if possible. Thanks guys
Is it really that easy? Disconnect the inner CV joint from the tranny, angle the wheel, remove the hub nut, and pull it out? Also, given that the rubber boot is ripped, will the CV joint just come apart or will I need to press/hammer things apart? BTDTs?
I can handle the job but the car is my daily and I can't really afford for it to be indisposed for more than an afternoon + evening, so I'd like to avoid unpleasant procedural surprises if possible. Thanks guys
09-19-2005, 05:34 AM
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Yes easy
You will need some CV clamp Crimpers.
The Boot kit will come with Moly grease as well as new clamps, but you gotta get some good Clamp crimpers. Other than that its pretty easy. The joints will come off easy.
If you have a torn boot you will have to clean the joint thoroughly to remove contaminated grease.
Don't forget you need a 12pt for Audi flange bolts.
The Boot kit will come with Moly grease as well as new clamps, but you gotta get some good Clamp crimpers. Other than that its pretty easy. The joints will come off easy.
If you have a torn boot you will have to clean the joint thoroughly to remove contaminated grease.
Don't forget you need a 12pt for Audi flange bolts.
09-19-2005, 05:47 AM
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How I'd do it..
I'd skip undoing the inner end of the driveshaft (as you are only dealing with the outer joint, right?), and undo the strut at the balljoint instead. (helps to undo the swaybar from the a arm too, so the a arm/balljoint will clear the strut).
I'll do almost anything to avoid stripping those 12 pt bolts..
Undo the big nut first though!
Turn the steering all the way to the left, and push the end of the CV in through where the big nut was, helping it out from the back of the hub.
CV joint just comes off the end of the shaft with some good pounds of the hammer. (A small clip inside keeps the CV from falling off). Try to keep your pounding from pulling on the inner CV joint though...
Make sure you note which way the washer on the shaft was sitting, when you pop off the CV joint.
Once the joint is off, you can now clean it all out, and repack before you put the boot back on.
IT's hard to explain how to get the ***** out, except that you have to really tilt the inner part to get it all started.
When putting it all back to gether, I'd suggest that you sort of test that the inner part still swivels correctly. It IS possible to get all the ***** and everthing to gether, and have the CV joint locked solid in the 'straight ahead' position. IF so, you want to know before you get it on the car!
If so, all you have to do is take apart the middle and the *****, and turn the middle part over. (Or pay attentiin when you take it apart!)
Make sure you get lots of grease down inside when repacking, and get more all over everything you touch. It's messy, but satisfying.
Good luck!
Turn
I'll do almost anything to avoid stripping those 12 pt bolts..
Undo the big nut first though!
Turn the steering all the way to the left, and push the end of the CV in through where the big nut was, helping it out from the back of the hub.
CV joint just comes off the end of the shaft with some good pounds of the hammer. (A small clip inside keeps the CV from falling off). Try to keep your pounding from pulling on the inner CV joint though...
Make sure you note which way the washer on the shaft was sitting, when you pop off the CV joint.
Once the joint is off, you can now clean it all out, and repack before you put the boot back on.
IT's hard to explain how to get the ***** out, except that you have to really tilt the inner part to get it all started.
When putting it all back to gether, I'd suggest that you sort of test that the inner part still swivels correctly. It IS possible to get all the ***** and everthing to gether, and have the CV joint locked solid in the 'straight ahead' position. IF so, you want to know before you get it on the car!
If so, all you have to do is take apart the middle and the *****, and turn the middle part over. (Or pay attentiin when you take it apart!)
Make sure you get lots of grease down inside when repacking, and get more all over everything you touch. It's messy, but satisfying.
Good luck!
Turn
09-19-2005, 09:22 AM
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Pictorial of CV joint / boot repair
Here's the one I did on my '81 Rabbit pickup (the 4KQ / 4K axles are almost the same)
Very straight forward procedure...and yes, it IS a messy job.<ul><li><a href="http://www.hasengeeks.com/projects.php?page=axles">Axle repair</a></li></ul>
Very straight forward procedure...and yes, it IS a messy job.<ul><li><a href="http://www.hasengeeks.com/projects.php?page=axles">Axle repair</a></li></ul>
09-19-2005, 01:29 PM
#6
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I'm doing this in a few days, just a few more question.
Thanks for everyones responses. Seems easy enough.
Mine is starting to "clack" on extreme turning only, but just really quiet. Now if I clean all the old grease out and put a new boot on, do you think I can save this joint? Or is it once it starts to make any kind of noise, it's toast?
Thanks
Mine is starting to "clack" on extreme turning only, but just really quiet. Now if I clean all the old grease out and put a new boot on, do you think I can save this joint? Or is it once it starts to make any kind of noise, it's toast?
Thanks
09-19-2005, 02:29 PM
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Thanks Steve! Great writeup.
In terms of actually cleaning out the CV joint, I was planning on using some Simple Green and then brake parts cleaner. Any reason those wouldn't work? Thanks again.
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09-19-2005, 02:30 PM
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Usually its toast by that point because the bearings are sloshing around inside the frame
Still inspect it. The CV joint can fail while turning which makes a click as the bearings slap against steel or can fail relative to the housing which makes a bad wobbly wobbly down the highway.
09-20-2005, 04:19 AM
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"Clack" noise
From my experience of crappy FWD cars:
Once the noise starts, you can't go back.
HOWEVER: If you do clean out and regrease the whole joint, it usually gets a bit better, and doesn't continue to get worse (Assuming that they are not TOTALLY beat from driving them that way forever!).
If price is an issue, just regrease them, and go.
Final failure is usually gradual, with lots of warning, so even if you redo them, you'll get lotas of warning before they are toast.
I've heard of a trick that is to swap the left & right outer CV joints. That gets the load woking in the opposite direction in the CV, so you can start on a fresh surface, wearing new grooves in the CV joint in the other direction!
If you already have one joint out, it's not going to be all that hard to go pull the other side at the same time. Good time to grease and replace the boots on both sides too!
Anyone ever tried that trick on really beat CV joints?
Once the noise starts, you can't go back.
HOWEVER: If you do clean out and regrease the whole joint, it usually gets a bit better, and doesn't continue to get worse (Assuming that they are not TOTALLY beat from driving them that way forever!).
If price is an issue, just regrease them, and go.
Final failure is usually gradual, with lots of warning, so even if you redo them, you'll get lotas of warning before they are toast.
I've heard of a trick that is to swap the left & right outer CV joints. That gets the load woking in the opposite direction in the CV, so you can start on a fresh surface, wearing new grooves in the CV joint in the other direction!
If you already have one joint out, it's not going to be all that hard to go pull the other side at the same time. Good time to grease and replace the boots on both sides too!
Anyone ever tried that trick on really beat CV joints?