Does anyone use Synthetic oil?
#1
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My car has 130k miles on it and holds 5 bar while moving and 3 bar at idle and doesn't consume any oil. Do you think its a good idea to switch? or do you think all the deposits are holding the thing together?
#3
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Can't say much for the oil pressures yet... Still havent got the center console gauges in.
I would probably stick with what you know is good.
I would probably stick with what you know is good.
#5
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I doubt it happens all the time, but ive heard if you switch now you may have some new leaks. Id better read up on it again, but i remember seeing something about how the synthetic oil makeup finds weak spots in seals etc.. Id say if your not burning any oil, and the oil is pretty good looking when coming out stay with regular oil. It's a hell of a lot cheaper too.
#6
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You might want to research a bit...
Synthetics don't vaporize as easily as mineralbased, therefore any that finds its way past rings/valves arrives raw into the combustion chamber... found out the hard way in my BMW (bike) that the plugs went south REAL quickly, the Beemer boxertwin is designed to burn oil and if it won't burn then??? Also the Valvoline Synpower SEARCHED for a way out of the seals to the ground. NO problems in my Renault or Ford, oil changes I extended and the drainage still smelled/looked/felt good...
Now I use Valvoline Duroblend in the Ford and daughter's 4KS, BMW is in restoration and Renault is dead for now. Seems to be a happy medium, as I expected. No science, just experience!
Synthetics don't vaporize as easily as mineralbased, therefore any that finds its way past rings/valves arrives raw into the combustion chamber... found out the hard way in my BMW (bike) that the plugs went south REAL quickly, the Beemer boxertwin is designed to burn oil and if it won't burn then??? Also the Valvoline Synpower SEARCHED for a way out of the seals to the ground. NO problems in my Renault or Ford, oil changes I extended and the drainage still smelled/looked/felt good...
Now I use Valvoline Duroblend in the Ford and daughter's 4KS, BMW is in restoration and Renault is dead for now. Seems to be a happy medium, as I expected. No science, just experience!
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#8
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I too have used Moble1 from day one of owner ship (going on 6 years now). The way I did it was to change to M1 and than change it again after 500 miles just to get out the slug that the M1 took out of the engine. I love M1 and would never put anything else into my car. I have also replaced my lifters after I did the M1 switch over. And even with new lifters and M1 I did get some chatter but I noticed that there are two reasons for my car having lifter chatter. First you don't have the oil topped off. If you have your oil at the very top of the fill line on the dip stick the car will not chatter. Second you are "getting on it" when the engine is not worm yet. This are the two reasons that I have found with my 2.3L coupe. This tow issues happens every time, so I have learned that when my car is tapping I need to add oil because I never every get on the car unless I have two LED's above the bottom. Hope this helps to quite your car down, I know how embarrassing it can be.
#9
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And by day one, I mean day one! I have receipts for Mobil one (from PO's) going back to 1989! The first owner was a petrochemical engineer for Mobil! The second was a fanatic! And I was like ehhh might as well... I'll put new lifters in this summer with the 272.