Engine removal - '87 4000S

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Old 09-08-2011, 05:18 PM
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Default Engine removal - '87 4000S

hey guys, i have to get rid of my 87 parts car sitting in the driveway very soon. My parents hate it and ive gotten mostly everything i need off it.

The last big thing i want is the 2.2 Kx engine sitting in it. Its got around 250,000 kms on it, but i plan on rebuilding it at school soon.

Im asking for a big favor, i really need someone to tell me the steps on how to easily remove the engine. I have most tools available for the job, including an engine hoist. Im only 15, but i see myslef as a very determined person. Im doing this mostly myself, but im sure i can.
Old 09-08-2011, 06:10 PM
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Well, you're at a HUGE advantage with it being a parts car that you'll be scrapping anyway.

Basically disconnect every hose, wire, and tube that goes into the engine. That's the easy part. Drain all fluids of course. Take the hood off... Then you can unbolt the engine mounts. I would remove them completely since it makes it easier to get everything out.

Of course you'll want to have the engine supported at this point. There's a lifting point in the back:



And of course the front one is bolted to the head:



I took the intake manifold off since it makes it easier to deal with the exhaust. I would unbolt the exhaust from the manifold and then remove the exhaust manifold, but whatever combination works best for you.

There are definitely a couple of bolts that seem like you can't remove them without taking off a different part first but you won't be able to do that until you remove the other bolts, but just do what you can and don't be afraid to hack the exhaust off, it's just pipes after all.

Once everything is out of the way, you can start with the bolts that hold the engine to the transmission. Most are large, but there are two annoying ones at the bottom that are small. Remember that the two bolts holding the starter on also are included.

Now comes the part that makes it easy if you're scrapping the car: Cut the whole front end off (and have fun doing it)! This way you'll be able to just lift the engine up and pull it forward out of the car.

There's really nothing too major about it. I would say the hardest part is getting the exhaust disconnected.

-Rog
Old 09-10-2011, 10:33 AM
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Thanks for the reply, i have a friend that is going to help out.

Im going to start later today draining the oil and things and unhooking all the plugs and tubes. This is going to be a crazy job.
Old 09-12-2011, 07:11 PM
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Hey guys, i have spent a couple hours allready with my friend removing different parts of of my parts car and i have allready drained the fluids from the engine. I have the radiator and radiator fan out of the car along with the entire air box and fuel system. things are comming along well.

I think i may have the engine out of the car by the end of the week. Keep an eye out for pictures too.
Old 09-13-2011, 05:11 PM
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Okay, another day of work has passed, i get off from school at 2:05 and i got back home and started working again around 2:20. This is what i have done:

Removed the two nuts for the side motor mounts coming from the sides of the engine.

Removed the front metal bracket connected to the bumper and the engine

Removed two bolts from the top end of the transmission that im sure were connected to the engine.

Starter motor bolts are off allready.

and now i am stuck, i dont know were the two small bolts are under the car for the transmission. So far i have 8 major bolts disconected. how many are there in total in terms of holding the engine to the car/transmission?
Old 09-13-2011, 08:08 PM
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What I had to do was lift the engine up a bit, like an inch or two. People who don't know any better often use the subframe as a jacking point, which crushes it against the bottom of the engine, making the two bottom bolts hard to get at. As long as the motor mount bolts are off you will have quite a bit of play to bring the engine upward. I'm trying to remember, but I think the two small bolts at the bottom have nuts on them.

So I believe there will be ten bolts total, if I'm remembering right. Seems like you always miss one, so double check if the engine isn't coming away from the transmission (although they do sometimes need some persuasion with a rubber mallet).

-Rog
Old 09-15-2011, 08:01 PM
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okay that sounds good. i should only have to do those last two lower transmission bolts then if im lucky. And now i feel really stupid because i have used the subframe as a jacking point quite a bit :s

it doesnt look bent or crushed. I always use a long flat piece of wood and lay it the length of the subframe to dispurse the weight though. Oh well lesson learned. I will work on the car this week for sure. Schools sometimes in the way.

Oh yeah and i have removed the front crossmember with a hacksaw and Aidan power
Old 10-23-2011, 08:37 PM
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Ok how did you do? I'm ready to do the same with my 86 type 44 which I am junking, but want the engine for my 83 Coupe GT. FYI, the 44has a tubo which I want. If I had the time I'd like to convert the fwd quattro but I'm just dreaming.

Last edited by TonyOldSchool; 10-23-2011 at 08:40 PM. Reason: iPad puts it's own spelling
Old 10-23-2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyOldSchool
Ok how did you do? I'm ready to do the same with my 86 type 44 which I am junking, but want the engine for my 83 Coupe GT.
This will be even easier, since there's a little more room, especially if you remove the radiator. You also won't need to fiddle with the exhaust, just cut it off right after the Y from the wastegate comes into the main pipe. If you're junking it anyway you might as well hack off the core support. I left the oil cooler attached, but I would definitely remove it so you don't accidentally kink the lines, as eventually happened in my case. Both manifolds can be left bolted in place.

Just be careful to remove all the wiring from the engine, you'll definitely need that to transplant. Also be sure to check out at least this page of my swap thread for some useful info. One of these days I'll finish it and post a detailed list of what needs to be done and wiring info...

-Rog
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