Front upright 5 lug conversion w/ boxster calipers... UPDATE :)
#12
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lol... I have a long distance gf, so yeah, I get away w/ murder :-P
she gets kinda pissed at me at times when I get stuck out in the garage too long while she's visiting
Shop isn't too packed as it's just my garage. I'm lucky that work has a full auto shop that I can use all the various tools, lifts, presses, tire mounter/balancer, etc... saved me quite a pretty penny thus far, that's for damn sure!
Shop isn't too packed as it's just my garage. I'm lucky that work has a full auto shop that I can use all the various tools, lifts, presses, tire mounter/balancer, etc... saved me quite a pretty penny thus far, that's for damn sure!
#13
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it's actually resting ON the metal in that picture...
and isn't allowing the wheel to sit flush on the hub, so I'm 100% certain that exact setup won't work
That was without spacers. I'm probably going to order up 12mm spacers to push it out so I have the appropriate clearance. To add a little comfort zone, I might also remove some material around the arm (basically that lip) so I don't have to worry too much about potential rubbing under hard loading of the corners.
Hopefully in the next week or so I'll be able to show off what I've come up with.
That was without spacers. I'm probably going to order up 12mm spacers to push it out so I have the appropriate clearance. To add a little comfort zone, I might also remove some material around the arm (basically that lip) so I don't have to worry too much about potential rubbing under hard loading of the corners.
Hopefully in the next week or so I'll be able to show off what I've come up with.
#16
It might be a good idea to speak with a tire rep to find out how much...
sidewall flex you can expect.. yo know... the maximum deviation before the bead breaks! Then you can be sure you'll stay clear unless there are greater issues at work.
#17
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good call... might do that as these will def see some deflection
being that these are the track tires and all and I plan on tossing this puppy around.
These are what those exact tires looked like on my A4 :-P
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/21175/mk2_9347.jpg">
lil bit 'o tire roll
These are what those exact tires looked like on my A4 :-P
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/21175/mk2_9347.jpg">
lil bit 'o tire roll
#20
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depends on offset and that kinda thing...
I lucked out because the B3 uprights allow you to bolt up A4 brakes to the car. So I took an A4 carrier for the boxster caliper and adjusted the offset of the hub to make everything line up.
What I did to figure out my offset was:
1) Measure the depth of the hub carrier where the bearing presses in to the top lip where the hub goes
2) measure the hub and how far it offset when pressed into the bearing
3) measured the bearing
4) measured how far the mounting tabs (where the calipers/carriers bolt to the assembly) were from that top lip that you referenced in #1
5) dimensioned the carriers and how they related
6) Front calipers I measured from where they bolt to the carrier to the inside edge of the caliper where the rotor begins, then how much space there was b/n the two pegs on the rotor. For the rears I didn' thave to bother doing this since they're floating rotors.
I then took all these measurements and drew them into autocad. With them there, I was able to play around w/ them to get everything centered up. On both instances I was off by 1/16"-3/16", but that was easily fixed w/ an additional spacer on the hub or in the fronts: space the caliper carrier from hub assembly.
I actually have a carrier sitting in my attic that is meant to bolt to a 4000/CGT upright and attach to a boxster caliper I'd offer ya, but I doubt it'd do any good since the B3 upright is a different beast... let alone the 959 caliper (those off a 944?)
Shoot me an email and I'll send you the technical drawing I came up with on autocad... will give you a better idea of what I ended up doing.
What I did to figure out my offset was:
1) Measure the depth of the hub carrier where the bearing presses in to the top lip where the hub goes
2) measure the hub and how far it offset when pressed into the bearing
3) measured the bearing
4) measured how far the mounting tabs (where the calipers/carriers bolt to the assembly) were from that top lip that you referenced in #1
5) dimensioned the carriers and how they related
6) Front calipers I measured from where they bolt to the carrier to the inside edge of the caliper where the rotor begins, then how much space there was b/n the two pegs on the rotor. For the rears I didn' thave to bother doing this since they're floating rotors.
I then took all these measurements and drew them into autocad. With them there, I was able to play around w/ them to get everything centered up. On both instances I was off by 1/16"-3/16", but that was easily fixed w/ an additional spacer on the hub or in the fronts: space the caliper carrier from hub assembly.
I actually have a carrier sitting in my attic that is meant to bolt to a 4000/CGT upright and attach to a boxster caliper I'd offer ya, but I doubt it'd do any good since the B3 upright is a different beast... let alone the 959 caliper (those off a 944?)
Shoot me an email and I'll send you the technical drawing I came up with on autocad... will give you a better idea of what I ended up doing.