Headlight connector help

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Old 09-18-2004, 10:25 AM
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Default Headlight connector help

Ok, the connector for the headlight switch on my car has been flakey for a while. One of the slots where the prong goes into from the switch is kinda buggered up, the metal pieces are mangled, it sucks, but it worked. When I installed the other switch it worked fine until this morning. Parking lamps, interior lights wouldnt come on, neither would the city lights. I knew the switch was the problem. It wasnt all the way pushed in, so I pushed it in all the way, now it doesnt work at all. The metal piece that was mangled doesnt make contact with the one prong on the headlight swith. Besides cutting and splicing an entire new headlight switch connector, what can I do?

Mike
Old 09-18-2004, 10:56 AM
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Default Re: Headlight connector help

Your socket has been melting at the #30 (red) power input connector. You will need to gouge out the areas of that (#30 red) wire and the 58R & 58L. Clip the ends off back to where the wire is still soft and splice in new wire with connectors for the switch. TOOOOO much heat at the #30 power source wire. People always blame the headlight wiring for this but that is not always so. Your switch is most likely in bad shape too by now. No fixing that one. Relay your parking lights and tail lights (one 30A relay) to avoid this in the future. Your lights will benefit too by being brighter.
BTDT
Old 09-18-2004, 11:43 AM
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Default Ok...

With the suggestion of my father, I pushed the metal tabs back into place, works now.
The switch I put in is in better shape connector wise than the old one was. My headlights are relayed, but not the parking lamps or tail lights.
At some point would splicing in an entirely new headlight connector be a smart idea?

Mike
Old 09-18-2004, 05:29 PM
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Default Re: Ok...

Replacing the connector is always a good idea but remember that the heat is still there and eventually you will find yourself back in the same boat. When the connector shows signs of melting you can be assured that the switch has been equally as hot and the little connector pins will show lots of movement. When this happens, the connectors start making contact with each other thus lights staying on when you think they are supposed to be turned off. Take apart one of your old switches so you can get a understanding of how it operates. First thing you will notice is that the headlight operation has nothing to do with the accessory lighting operation.
Old 09-18-2004, 09:33 PM
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Default Re: Ok...

Well, what had happened a long time ago is this.
The old headlight switch, the prong on the switch itself got bent and when I went to put the switch into the connector, but it wasnt going in all the way, so I forced it. The end result was that one part of the connector that got all messed up. Its not burnt around that area. With my headlights being relayed now the switch doesnt get hot like it used to when they werent relayed.
I messed with the switch today and got it working. I tugged on the switch to make sure it wouldnt accidentally go out while I was driving or hit a large bump, which I hit many tonight on country back roads.
Hopefully this is solved (knock on wood).
Thanks for the help!

Mike
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