High Coolant Temps
#1
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1985 Coupe GT
I'm lost on this one. My coolant temp is continues to rise after the electric fan comes on. I have replaced the thremostat, radiator last week and I have burp the system until no air bubbles could be heard/found. I have notice the when I push on the throttle linkage and the Expansion tank cap is off I do not see any movement of the coolant. The water pump and tension pulley have been change aapproximately a year ago. I believe that either the water pump shear a shaft or the timing belt is not making contact with the water pump. No unusal noise from the engine.
Any ideas from past experiences would help.
Thanks Troy
I'm lost on this one. My coolant temp is continues to rise after the electric fan comes on. I have replaced the thremostat, radiator last week and I have burp the system until no air bubbles could be heard/found. I have notice the when I push on the throttle linkage and the Expansion tank cap is off I do not see any movement of the coolant. The water pump and tension pulley have been change aapproximately a year ago. I believe that either the water pump shear a shaft or the timing belt is not making contact with the water pump. No unusal noise from the engine.
Any ideas from past experiences would help.
Thanks Troy
#2
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Have you pulled the timing cover off and looked at the belt and water pump while the engine is running? The water pump pulley is toothed to receive the timing belt, so something would be seriously wrong if it's not being turned.
And was the engine up to temperature (thermostat open) when you checked to see if coolant was moving through the system?
I've had trouble getting all the air out of the coolant system before, but if you bled the air out through the top temp sensor where the hose comes out of the engine (the highest point) then you should be good there.
But it definitely sounds like the problem is in coolant not being able to circulate. Have you done a good flush?
-Rog
And was the engine up to temperature (thermostat open) when you checked to see if coolant was moving through the system?
I've had trouble getting all the air out of the coolant system before, but if you bled the air out through the top temp sensor where the hose comes out of the engine (the highest point) then you should be good there.
But it definitely sounds like the problem is in coolant not being able to circulate. Have you done a good flush?
-Rog
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I did check fluid movement with the thermostat open, still no fluid flow. I pulled the thermostat and tested it(it pass). I did not run the engine with the cover off as yet. In fact I'm about half way done with pulling the pump. Maintenance was done about a year ago when I had the timing belt change/and pump/and tension pulley. But, when I took the cover off and started to look at the pump it look extremely old, as if it was the original pump. I should have it done today after work. Thanks for your input it helps.
Troy
Troy
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I have an official Audi Shop manual and no where does it tell me how to remove the water pump on my Coupe GT. I have removed the timing belt cover, all other covers/panels, and I have loosen the pump but I still can't remove it. I suspect that I need to remove the timing belt pulley also. Is this correct?? I honestly believe that Audi built the Coupe around the water pump.
It's frustrating.
Troy
It's frustrating.
Troy
#6
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Yeah, there are a lot of parts that you basically have to dismantle the entire car it seems like.
To remove the water pump you have to first remove the power steering pump (leave the hoses attached, just move it to one side), and then you'll want to set the engine to TDC. The easiest way is to line up the mark on the distributor housing with the center of the distributor rotor by turning the engine with a wrench (while the car's in neutral). I think you have to remove the rear timing belt cover as well.
Then if you have all the bolts out it should come free. It's easier with the timing belt off, but as long as you can get enough slack it'll be fine with it on. If you don't have any slack in the timing belt then that's the problem for sure.
-Rog
To remove the water pump you have to first remove the power steering pump (leave the hoses attached, just move it to one side), and then you'll want to set the engine to TDC. The easiest way is to line up the mark on the distributor housing with the center of the distributor rotor by turning the engine with a wrench (while the car's in neutral). I think you have to remove the rear timing belt cover as well.
Then if you have all the bolts out it should come free. It's easier with the timing belt off, but as long as you can get enough slack it'll be fine with it on. If you don't have any slack in the timing belt then that's the problem for sure.
-Rog
#7
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I was looking at the engine I have on a stand and just realized that it's probably impossible to remove the back timing cover with the belt on and the cam gear attached... You might be able to squeeze the pump out as long as you can get the belt slack enough. But yeah, with the back plate off it comes right out.
-Rog
-Rog
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