audi-driver1126

what i meant to get at is, it seems like the fuel isnt making it past the distributor

Rogviler

It could very well be your pressure regulator, but I've never had one go bad so I'm not sure how you would diagnose it. I think they usually don't cause the car to not start, it just runs badly due to incorrect pressure. It is rare for them to go bad though, so don't completely rule out everything else. If you have a junkyard nearby that you can get one for cheap to test, that would be ideal. If you get to the point where you're sure that's what it is I can see if I have a spare.

By the way, having just removed the evaporator from my car, I would strongly suspect that you could be getting a leak from where that seals to the white box under the hood (where the crappy black plastic cover is). I'd pop the white cover off (four screws) and see if there's anything that needs to be sealed up. The white cover also should have a seal around it, although by its very nature (to provide fresh air) it has some big gaping holes in it, so to me that seems kind of useless.

-Rog

4corners

I have a spare for him if you don't.

audi-driver1126

thanks rog and 4corners, my internet went down the day after my last post, but during that time i got a good used DPR from an 88-89 audi sport coupe, the only thing wrong with the old girl was that it got rear ended. the part was never even unplugged in its lifetime and i got it free.

anyway, that didnt do jack **** but at least i can be sure it DOES work

fits on fine, looks exactly the same and the plug fits the same. is there any way that i can test if it gets electricity? im pretty sure it runs with 7 amps. i plugged two wires to the DPR from a reliable power source but i couldnt tell if it did anything...so im setting aside that idea for now

give me every last idea stored in your heads

oh yes and rog, i think i found the main cause for that leak of mine. stupidly i never looked at the space between the front window and the hood in between the window wipers...there is a rust hole (its only one) and it goes down under the bodywork and behind the crappy plastic cover

thanks again for the help everyone...i really apreciate it

socalclimber

Aidan,

Don't know if you're still working on this project or not (2 months since last post), but I'll lend my 2 cents. What year is your 4000s? If you have a DPR, it must be 84 or newer, maybe an 85 or 86? 4-cyl or 5-cyl engine?

I agree with Rog and think it's awesome that you're learning to work on cars in general. Audi's are cool cars!

If car is still not starting, you might try lifting air flow sensor plate while starting engine. Take out front half of air filter housing and remove air filter, so you can reach your hand up and lift plate 1/4 to 1/2 inch while starting car. This simulates air being drawn into engine and moves plunger in fuel distributor to send fuel to injectors. Don't move it up too much or you can flood engine. If car starts and stays running with a little assist on this plate, it is likely that you have an air leak on black intake boot between fuel distributor and throttle body.

Can also remove an injector with fuel line attached and lift plate to see if fuel sprays out.

On the DPR, it's not a good idea to apply voltage to these things or any fuel injection electronics for that matter (fuel pump and cold start valve are okay). Voltage or current can easily damage the ECU.

Make or buy an LED test light, they come in handy, and they put a very small load on sensitive electrical circuits (like Hall Sender circuit on Audi ignition distributors when you test ignition pulse on neg. side of coil).

Here's a site that shows you how to make one out an old pen.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com...-test-lamp.htm

I would put your old DPR back on, unless the part numbers are the same.

DPR runs on milli-Amp current, usually 5-60mA, and controls amount of fuel being delivered to injectors by varying pressure to them (between 2 chambers in the fuel distributor). You test them with a volt-ohm-amp meter while running or cranking to see how much current is being sent thru circuit by ECU. You put meter inline between DPR and DPR harness and measure the mA current.

You need a DPR test harness, but they are easy to make from one 2-prong female FI connector (like an old cold start valve connector) and one 2-prong male connector (like what's on an old oxygen sensor).

Here's more info on DPR and shows the hookup of this test harness.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/timing2.htm

More good info here: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tuning-cise.htm

audi-driver1126

yes i am still working on this project.

the car is a 1987 Audi 4000s 2.2 liter inline 5 cylinder. it has an automatic transmission to. just got a brand new battery for it and was planning to do some more work

recently the weather has been terrible so work is at a standstill. but every now and then i experiment. i have taken apart all the rubber tubbing for the airflow and re assembled it correctly to make sure everything was good and two weeks ago i loosened a bolt on the new DPR after turning ignition to check for fuel pressure and fuel sprayed out. so the fuel is pressurized but its NOT GETTING TO THE ENGINE from the distributor

im going to re check if the fuel pump activates on ignition or not. if it doesnt i have a simple problem

"about 2 months ago i had the car running FANTASTICLY. i had to move the car to make room for a truck and i was out of gas. the car came on and was able to move until i planted the brakes and the car just shut off, never to start again"

socalclimber

Try to pull up or hold up air flow sensor plate while cranking. You either have to remove air filter element and push up from below, or pull off black intake boot and pull up on air sensor plate from above with a pliers on 10mm bolt.

You can usually keep car running by moving this plate up to "simulate" air moving past sensor plate. This is what actuates plunger in fuel distributor and sends fuel to injectors. This is, of course, if fuel pump and fuel distributor are working.

audi-driver1126

ok will do, i know exactly what parts your talking about here.

currently i think my starter motor is broken because it just makes a clicking sound so...
once i figure that out i will check power to the fuel pump and check the pump itself and then i will simulate the air flow. i think i may have to just take the boot off because apparently on my car the air filter is very difficult to access

it seems every time i get this car working somthing else brakes on it...

check out this link to see pictures of the cars engine, exterior and interior
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...0&l=008098cb06

socalclimber

Bummer that the starter just clicks. Make sure battery is fully charged.

I saw that you replaced starter some time ago in the pics (last 6 months). Was that a good used or a remanufactured?

If you had pressure at DPR, fuel pump is probably okay.

Maybe remove the big part of the intake boot at fuel distributor, and lift air sensor plate 1/4 - 1/2 inch while someone cranks the engine, and see if she'll start. The fuel pressure makes sensor plate hard to lift past a certain point, so if you can lift it easily while cranking.

If she does, maybe you have an air leak on intake boot, inspect it closely.

There's a way to jump fuel pump with fuel pump relay removed with a test jumper of 1/4 male spades on each side. Have you tried that? Locate and remove fuel pump relay and put jumper on the sockets where "30" and "87" terminals are, look on bottom of fuel pump relay (pic). You should hear fuel pump buzzing. Newer relays may have wider terminals for 30 and 87. 30 is battery, 87 goes to fuel pump + side. Check fuel pump relay fuse as well.

audi-driver1126

it has been really cold lately, i mean it is canada...so the battery drains in the cold after a couple nights of siting so that could be the starter problem.

my grandfather also pointed out that the starter motor could be frozen stuck
(but i doubt that)

and the starter motor was used from a 1981 Audi 5000s.

it bolted up great but i had to switch the solenoid from the original starter because the new starter didnt have a plug for one of the 3 wires (yellow,black and red)

turns out that the 3rd wire controlled fuel pump. after i replaced the solenoid the car worked again.

also i have not tried your relay idea and once i figure out this starter motor i promise to try your ideas. thanks