I'm having #%**(%^ problems w/rebuilt alternator.

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Old 12-30-2003, 05:42 AM
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Default I'm having #%**(%^ problems w/rebuilt alternator.

Had this thing off and back to the rebuilt shop THREE times, and know it's mounted correctly: I'm a freakin expert on it now. Still having non-charging conditions. Like it'll work for two weeks, and then fail. Had to get towed the other day 'cause of it. The guy in the Alt shop swears that the alternator itself isn't the problem. Bushings, regulator replaced, along with a couple of diodes.

I did a archive search. Saw where a couple of us have actually replaced the positive wiring from the battery, as well as the blue exciter wire. Now I'm leaning towards a bad connection, altho I've sanded all connections. everywhere!

OK, here's my questions:
1] What's the trick to finding the dash end of the blue exciter wire?
2] What gage wire should I use for r/r both positive and blue wire? Can I use a commercially available positive wire w/ pre made plugs, or do I need to manufacture one? I don't wanna go to the stealership, an am very competant w/ wiring stuff.
3]When do U give up on a rebuilt alternator as just being worthless; and bite the bullett and get a actual replacement?

I'm just a BIT @#&&*(%^^ crazy over this.....
Old 12-30-2003, 05:49 AM
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Default Answers...

#1. Battery light on dash.
#2. Blue ~ 14-16 ga. Battery 0 ga. Make your own, you have to.
#3. Always rebuild your own alternators.

Your problem is most likely that you have a bad engine/chassis ground. Run a ground strap from your alternator to your engine and a new one from your engine to your frame.

IIRC, there is a connector in the blue wire just below the pass side low beam. Check that too.
Old 12-30-2003, 06:07 AM
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Default What about the brushes from the voltage regulator?

Have these been checked? This was the problem once with mine (which acted how you describe yours), and the carbon brushes were worn down to the nubs. Just a thought...

--morgan
Old 12-30-2003, 06:20 AM
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All the brushes were replaced
Old 12-30-2003, 06:24 AM
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Default Thanks! where is the present ground from engine to frame?

There is an existing ground strap from alt to engine bloc. Are U avocating r/r that as well?

Thanks for the answers, Dude!
Old 12-30-2003, 07:02 AM
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Default Yep...

Replace that / make a better one and do the same for grounding the engine to the chassis. The grounds should be big, like 4 ga. wire or larger. Clean metal-to-metal, and use dielectric grease.
Old 12-30-2003, 07:04 AM
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is dielectric grease the same as the "white petroleum jelly"
Old 12-30-2003, 07:24 AM
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Default I wouldn't put dielectric grease on your......if that's what you're asking

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/49763/grease.jpg"></center><p>Hah, sorry, you kinda set yourself up for that one.

I don't know. Maybe. Maybe not. It cost $1 for a tube of it at the auto parts store.
Old 12-30-2003, 09:07 AM
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Default LOL! Thanks, I needed that about now in my day.

The petroleum jelly in your photo is clear.... useful for lotsa things, but I agree not for my"...."

A good bit of humor is useful, especially when I've mis-placed mine!
Old 12-30-2003, 09:19 AM
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Default I'm glad you found that funny...

...but I'm sure you're going to find the problem is in your grounds.

I remember about 7 years ago or so the alt ground on my 4k4e corroded through and left me stranded.

Best of luck.


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