it's been hard getting anywhere on my CGT while i'm at school.. but my bro just picked this up...
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but in the future, i'm aiming for around 200, maybe more.. which shouldnt be too hard with the right parts and unfortunately, a bit of money.. the real problem is cams, like i said, the stockers are horrible. e30 m3's get 195 out of a 2.3 while being very streetable, with only 250ish degree cams, they have plenty of grunt down low and scream up top... the way i see it, the more power up top, the better, even if i sacrifice the tq, i feel the power will be more usable in this particular situation.
but you're right.. more than 180 or so will be hard with the stock cams and the management as well, but next winter's project is megasquirt after i get it all running. Once i get that worked in, the plan is cams, and then i'll be able to get some more power, but until then i'm very limited. the car will be definitely be more peaky, but i'm pretty confident as long as i dont go too extreme with the cams and dont rely completely on them to make the power, it will stay fairly balanced, and will probably end up having more grunt than it has now... (below 4k rpm you can literally hear how bad the cams are, it resonates a lot, has an off-beat burble to it, its just terrible)
we seem to have different approaches to this, you want a 2.6 10v, i'd go with the italian style 2.0 20v if i could get my hands on one of those euro 77.4mm stroke cranks. its more of the feel to me, i like to floor it and have it pick up and it then skyrocket to redline (i grew up with bmws and an e28 m5, its very evident).. however, i'm sure i'll be asking you plenty of questions in the future, especially when it comes to suspension, as i like a lot of your ideas on that subject... advice and knowledge is always wanted, even opposing theories can be helpful
** i forgot to mention one of the key parts to making HP, like you said.. revs, i plan to spin it up to 8k or so after i do all the above, believe it or not, even though i'm only 18, i knew what HP actually was many years ago [(rpm x tq)/5252].. the r's being the all important factor to the sort of engine i plan on building. and i know it's harder and theres more involved than what it sounds like just saying it.. but i'm not going for more power for a longgg time, for now, i just want the damned thing running!
but you're right.. more than 180 or so will be hard with the stock cams and the management as well, but next winter's project is megasquirt after i get it all running. Once i get that worked in, the plan is cams, and then i'll be able to get some more power, but until then i'm very limited. the car will be definitely be more peaky, but i'm pretty confident as long as i dont go too extreme with the cams and dont rely completely on them to make the power, it will stay fairly balanced, and will probably end up having more grunt than it has now... (below 4k rpm you can literally hear how bad the cams are, it resonates a lot, has an off-beat burble to it, its just terrible)
we seem to have different approaches to this, you want a 2.6 10v, i'd go with the italian style 2.0 20v if i could get my hands on one of those euro 77.4mm stroke cranks. its more of the feel to me, i like to floor it and have it pick up and it then skyrocket to redline (i grew up with bmws and an e28 m5, its very evident).. however, i'm sure i'll be asking you plenty of questions in the future, especially when it comes to suspension, as i like a lot of your ideas on that subject... advice and knowledge is always wanted, even opposing theories can be helpful
** i forgot to mention one of the key parts to making HP, like you said.. revs, i plan to spin it up to 8k or so after i do all the above, believe it or not, even though i'm only 18, i knew what HP actually was many years ago [(rpm x tq)/5252].. the r's being the all important factor to the sort of engine i plan on building. and i know it's harder and theres more involved than what it sounds like just saying it.. but i'm not going for more power for a longgg time, for now, i just want the damned thing running!
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I made a deal with my dad, the CGT is going to make it out to Calabogie Motorsports Park this year even if it is on a trailer.
These threads really tell me what we can do with our cars, Garza and Dwight and Q you guys seem to have a good knowledge of tracking these beasts, and after riding with Bruce Wickett last year i know that our cars are fun.
The big plans for me is to get the thing running stock first. I have a 272 cam waiting to go in, and a new set of front struts as well. I just feel I need to put some miles on it first and make sure that it will handle the rest later.
These threads really tell me what we can do with our cars, Garza and Dwight and Q you guys seem to have a good knowledge of tracking these beasts, and after riding with Bruce Wickett last year i know that our cars are fun.
The big plans for me is to get the thing running stock first. I have a 272 cam waiting to go in, and a new set of front struts as well. I just feel I need to put some miles on it first and make sure that it will handle the rest later.
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he gave me a ride in his caged CGT at Watkins Glen 3 years ago. After that I was looking for cheap CGTs to strip into track cars, and then I fell on my 4000... and the rest, as you say, is history.
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That's the main problem with a NA 5cyl. It's too compacted to really bore it, so no matter how much headwork you do, it's still breathing through a small hole, unfortunately the only you can't change. Some more intelligent cams and management should make it quite possible. Those heads flow like wind.
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They had about a 78mm bore and a 77.4mm stroke, the bore spacing is the same on our 5cyl.
The biggest overbore I've seen is 84mm and they had to x-ray the block to see if there was enought material on the cylinder walls.
The only way for a decent sized bore (90+mm), is to completely redesign the block and space the cylinders much further apart!
The biggest overbore I've seen is 84mm and they had to x-ray the block to see if there was enought material on the cylinder walls.
The only way for a decent sized bore (90+mm), is to completely redesign the block and space the cylinders much further apart!