couper83

ok i need as much help as possible

my coil is good, i have new(right) spark plugs, i have fuel and i have air

why wont the coupe fire, the last tim eit fired only 2 outa 5 plugs fired right after i put in the new plug

thanks in advance

audithepeanut

Good grounds and connections?

couper83

probably, and probably not but my wiring is so messed i wouldnt know where to begin

audithepeanut

Definitely check around all the connectors, one of the PO's of my car spliced in connectors poorly and crinke-wrapped them so it looked factory, so it may seem fine but be screwing you over.

Check and be positive your battery ground strap has great contact, mine was only grazing and caused me some major aggravation. (lesson:check your buddies work)

If only a few seem to be firing, how are your plug wires? Are they in the right spots?

couper83

ok i have a sympton on this, when i turn the ignition on, the fuel pump doesnt run for 3 seconds anymore, it use to after a failed starting attemp before i turn off the igniton but it wont anymore

audithepeanut

Are relays good? CIS is not my strong point. do you have a bentley manual?

couper83

i think when i have more money i will get a new fuel pump relay i cold have blown it somehow

yeah i ran alot of the test and the one i ran invovled grounding the hall sender connecter to the distributor and the fuel pump sequence that wasnt working ran for 3 seconds and shut off, but then it didnt do it again so i think something is wrong

yeah CIS sucks and a frined of mine is giving me his 1990 Coupe Quattro 7A engine for free and i might get an 034 EFI compter and rebuild that engine and put it in my coupe

Tony Hoffman-4000Q

To start, when you say you have fuel and air, what do you mean? are the injectors actually spraying? have you verified no inlet restrictions? Have you done a compression test?

Assuming you have fuel and air, and they are metered accordingly, the only thing left is spark.

Start by checking for power at the positive side of the coil. This is terminal #1. You should have battery voltage with the key in both run and crank positions. If so, on to the next. Unplug the hall sender. It's a three pin connection on the distributor. You should also have power at teh red wire there. Check for ground on the brown wire relative to battery voltage.

If you have that, the next step os to check the function of the hall sender itself. I do this by removing it, but it can be done in the engine as well. There are five cutouts (known as "windows") in the chopper wheel. These are seen once the distributor cap, rotor, and plastic cover are removed. You should see about 4.5V in one condition, and 0V in the other. I can never seem to remember if the voltage is "in window" or "out of window". Nonetheless, this should get you started.

Let us know what you find,
Tony Hoffman

couper83

i replaced the hall sender and trigger wheel and did all the bentley test i could and i got the fuel pump to prime like it should when the ignition first turns on but it only did it once witht he test i ran then it wouldnt do it again

i do have power to the hall connector and the coil connectors read 4 volts then drop to 0 after 2 seconds but only on a coil i found laying around that worked, my actual coil read .02 volts which i knew was wrong.

but usually after i try to start the Coupe and i let go of the key i hear the pump prime usually but not anymore, this week(spring break) i will try the fuel pump test in the bentley.


other than what i have tried and your guys advice im dead in the water

but still more advice is appreciated and i thank all of you in advance

Tony Hoffman-4000Q

That is, if we are talking about the positive (terminal 15) side of the coil. You should have 12V there all the time. You should also have 12V at the red wire of the hall sender.

Testing for power on the other side, you have to disconnect the wires from the coil, and see if you get the 4.5-0-4.5 series when spinning the distributor.

HTH,
Tony Hoffman