OK, just "drove" for the first time with the new rear bar...
#1
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OK, just "drove" for the first time with the new rear bar...
Despite my hooligan tactics to try and get the car unseated, it stayed planted. An impromptu auto-x run in the deserted school lot proved the car to be flat and firm. It feels unbelievably controlled, and more 'tossable' than usual. A quick run in the esses also showed the car to be a true performer; not a hint of roll or pitch or sway, etc. I took a deep breath, and with one valient torque of the wheel, I attempted to get the car sideways. Nope. The car's tail kicked out for just a fraction of a second, then rigidly straighted itself out with plenty of time to spare. Heck of an upgrade, the rear bar.
#4
The scans would be appreciated . . .
. . . and I had a fleeting thought.
My biggest concern is getting the D-bolt through the frame and into the end-link bracket.
I'm thinking of putting a length of aquarium tubing over one end of the D-bolt, possibly making it easier to manoeuvre the D-bolt into place.
Thoughts?
My biggest concern is getting the D-bolt through the frame and into the end-link bracket.
I'm thinking of putting a length of aquarium tubing over one end of the D-bolt, possibly making it easier to manoeuvre the D-bolt into place.
Thoughts?
#5
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It may make it easier to guide through, but if you let the D-bolt go, you'll never get it back.
Therefore, I might suggest attaching a "lifeline" to it, such as a piece of string or something, to ensure it's return if you ever let it go and it lets loose in the unibody. The aquarium tube is a good idea, it might work easier for you than it did for me.
#6
Did you ever get close to losing a D-bolt?
I am figuring on the making the holes in the frame a little oval in shape, as it is impossible to drop the D-bolt absolutely straight down from above.
The bolt has to be 'wormed' through the frame so that both ends hang down, allowing the application of the nuts holding the end-link bracket.
I just don't want to lose the D-bolts . . .
The bolt has to be 'wormed' through the frame so that both ends hang down, allowing the application of the nuts holding the end-link bracket.
I just don't want to lose the D-bolts . . .
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#9
Don't believe the doubters
I could never get mine to break loose either.
On the offhand chance it ever does (gravel, snow, fluid on the race track as you enter a turn at 50mph...aaaack!) just aim the steering wheel where you want to go and floor it. Works every time (so far).
On the offhand chance it ever does (gravel, snow, fluid on the race track as you enter a turn at 50mph...aaaack!) just aim the steering wheel where you want to go and floor it. Works every time (so far).
#10
Ok I'm not sure of the width, but;.....
would it not be easier to make the connection to the forward end of the trailing arms? Much easier to get a bolt through a piece of metal you have access to both sides and you will get just as much reduction in roll.