Short Block or Long Block
02-05-2004, 08:10 AM
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Short Block or Long Block
I've been checking out the rebuilt engines at eurospecsport.com, and have a simple question...
What is the difference between a short block and long block again? Does the head come with a long block?
What is the difference between a short block and long block again? Does the head come with a long block?
02-05-2004, 08:22 AM
#3
Re: Short Block or Long Block
Short block refers to an assembled engine from the oil sump to the deck (basically the block + crank + rods + pistons + oil sump).
Long block includes a complete head bolted to the block.
Long block includes a complete head bolted to the block.
02-05-2004, 08:24 AM
#4
Oh, also, I think I'd still have a good machine shop/engine builder go through it and make sure its
put together correctly, no oddities (including crank balance!). A few people with 2.0L 20vt's have had problems with a balance issue, others have had problems on engines that used JE sourced wrist pins that ESS uses.
02-05-2004, 08:25 AM
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Eurospecsport Engines
Cool, got it.
Any thoughts on Eurospecsport stuff? $1650 for bored/stroked 2.6 (from 2.3) short block.
I know I could probably get a junk 2.3 and have the work done on it for a little cheaper, but I'm a slave to convenience...
Any thoughts on Eurospecsport stuff? $1650 for bored/stroked 2.6 (from 2.3) short block.
I know I could probably get a junk 2.3 and have the work done on it for a little cheaper, but I'm a slave to convenience...
02-05-2004, 09:59 AM
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Re: Eurospecsport Engines
Eurospecsport will sell you the crankshaft and rod parts w/o the block if you have a local machine shop. Another idea is to use the crank/rods from a 92 to 94 VW Eurovan - it has the I-5 Audi block stroked to 2.5L, but it may be near impossible to find one since so few were sold... Maybe one of our global posters can pick a yard near Wolfsburg or Ingolstadt :-)
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02-05-2004, 04:14 PM
#8
The EV's block is 15mm taller than normal due to the longer than normal rods....
You CANNOT just plop in the rotating assembly from the EV's engine into a normal VAG 5cyl. For one, they use a 95.5mm throw crank, which has different main diameters IIRC. Two, the rods are too long, and when you drop those on the crank with pistons attached you will have pistons sticking out the top side of the block. Head will not be able to bolted on at that point ;-) Three, the EV rods are weaker compared to other VAG 5cyl rods. Long and thin.
02-09-2004, 11:46 AM
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Re: Eurospecsport Engines
I've heard not-nice things about their rods, as well as their biz practices (advise, promises, etc.).
Their catalog is impressive tho', there's not really other places to gawk at those types of items. I would stick with one of the known rod brands, like Pauter, Carillo, and such. The stroker crank is probably good, but who knows.
I was thinking it was the best option, until I heard about someone who's stroker motor from there failed. It's third-hand info tho', so YMMV.
Their catalog is impressive tho', there's not really other places to gawk at those types of items. I would stick with one of the known rod brands, like Pauter, Carillo, and such. The stroker crank is probably good, but who knows.
I was thinking it was the best option, until I heard about someone who's stroker motor from there failed. It's third-hand info tho', so YMMV.
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