Starting problem...possible csv?
#1
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I just started driving the coupe again. it starts fine and idles fine for about 10-20 sec. and then the rpms drop and it sputters and dies. If you keep your foot on the gas you can keep it running and once it warms up it runs fine. does this sound like a csv problem and is there anyway I can test it?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
#2
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Here's my post about it!
--morgan<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/4000/msgs/72926.phtml">Click:</a></li></ul>
--morgan<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/4000/msgs/72926.phtml">Click:</a></li></ul>
#3
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I had a similar problem, I played with the timing and it got better.
The CSV shoots fuel during the first seconds of starting so if it starts and then dies it probably isn't the csv.
The CSV shoots fuel during the first seconds of starting so if it starts and then dies it probably isn't the csv.
#6
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Vacuum lines maybe?
AW Notes:
As many of you have probably noticed, I stopped posting here frequently. I still read the forums everyday...but I stopped posting to these 'help' topics because I hate to lead people in a wrong direction.
I'm now working in a shop, and when someone asks me something outside work, its simply "ill look at it" or "it could be a combination of things". I don't explain what 'could' be wrong anymore because Ive seen WAY too many things diagnosed and the problem is actually related to something totally different.
To all of you audiworld guys, goodluck with your vehicles. This forum has inspired me to do what I love. You guys are great!!!
-Jerome
AW Notes:
As many of you have probably noticed, I stopped posting here frequently. I still read the forums everyday...but I stopped posting to these 'help' topics because I hate to lead people in a wrong direction.
I'm now working in a shop, and when someone asks me something outside work, its simply "ill look at it" or "it could be a combination of things". I don't explain what 'could' be wrong anymore because Ive seen WAY too many things diagnosed and the problem is actually related to something totally different.
To all of you audiworld guys, goodluck with your vehicles. This forum has inspired me to do what I love. You guys are great!!!
-Jerome
#7
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I thought that your post about not misleading folks, and the way you were responding to questions was very "Mark Twain"... I think he said the following:
"If everybody thinks that somethin' is such-an-such, than it ain't so by a thousand to one!"
"If everybody thinks that somethin' is such-an-such, than it ain't so by a thousand to one!"
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#9
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I'd bet your problem is a failure of engine temp sensor, with it thinking that the motor is already warm.
Why?
The motor starts OK, as it's been primed by the cold start injector. And it runs OK when warm, as the ECU 'thinks' the motor warm anyway. But it runs like crap while in 'warmup' mode while the motor is still cold, as the ECU thinks the motor is already warm..
To prove?
Unplug the connector on the BOTTOM sensor of the water outlet (the connector that has the metal clip holding it on, that's really hard to undo!) when the motor is cold, and try starting. See what happens!
When the ECU sees an open circuit on that sensor, it thinks that the motor is REALLY cold, so it will go full rich.
Let the motor run for a few minutes, then connect the sensor again (Otherwise the mixture will be too rich, for a warmed up motor).
If unplugging the sensor helps cold running, then the sensor is the problem.
I've seen the same sensor go bad to a low resistance value (giving symptoms as you indicate) and a different sensor go bad to a high resistance value (making the car get nasty gas milage, and run like crap).
Why?
The motor starts OK, as it's been primed by the cold start injector. And it runs OK when warm, as the ECU 'thinks' the motor warm anyway. But it runs like crap while in 'warmup' mode while the motor is still cold, as the ECU thinks the motor is already warm..
To prove?
Unplug the connector on the BOTTOM sensor of the water outlet (the connector that has the metal clip holding it on, that's really hard to undo!) when the motor is cold, and try starting. See what happens!
When the ECU sees an open circuit on that sensor, it thinks that the motor is REALLY cold, so it will go full rich.
Let the motor run for a few minutes, then connect the sensor again (Otherwise the mixture will be too rich, for a warmed up motor).
If unplugging the sensor helps cold running, then the sensor is the problem.
I've seen the same sensor go bad to a low resistance value (giving symptoms as you indicate) and a different sensor go bad to a high resistance value (making the car get nasty gas milage, and run like crap).
#10
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cold engines don't like to run lean, so spray some carb cleaner around the boot, injectors and hoses to see if you have a leak that can be tidied up. Another issue may be fuel pressure. Try jumping the FP Relay to see if that helps, if so you may have a weak relay or some FI issues to check out.