Suspension work. Is it really that hard?

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Old 05-28-2007, 10:38 AM
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Default Suspension work. Is it really that hard?

Hi, I recently got an 1986 coupe gt, which I like a lot, but there are of course several problems with the car. One things is a cracked exhaust manifold, which is more of an inconvinience I can live with that at the moment. Another thing is suspension. The car has 193 km on it (Canadian model) and suspension is shot. It needs new struts, strut mounts, control arm bushings and subframe bushings. It also needs rear trailing arm bushings.
Now my questions are:

1. Can it be done without special tools:

I was thinking of getting these parts:
strut inserts ( is it hard to put them in)
stut mounts, bushings
control arm (complete with bushings) and ball joints (I know I'll need to do the alignment afterwards)
Now, the question is: how hard is it to replace subframe bushings?
shoul I also try to do sway bar bushings at the same time?
Now the shop (reputable one, that specializes in such cars) quoted me 2 hour for struts/strut mounts, 1.5 hours to replace control arms and ball joints, and 3 hours to drop the subframe, do the bushings along with transmission mounts.

The rear trailing arm bushings take 3 hours, since I was told it's a pain in the *** to get them out, especially on the old car like a coupe. The bolts are hard to access and they need to be cut off sometimes.
Now my question is: should I let the shop do it, or try to do it myself?
will I require special tools for:
1. struts?
2. control arms + ball joints R&R
3. subrfame.
4. rear trailing arms bushings

and one more question, where can I get subframe bushings? nobody seems to stock them, and rear trailing arms bushings are nowehere to be found as well....

finally, is it worth it to replace the exhaust manifold (which is cracked) with a another one (probably a 4000, since it's an upgrade) or is too much pain and risk?
thanks in advance
I really appreciate all your help.
Old 05-28-2007, 10:52 AM
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Default Never touched subframe stuff

In order to replace the shocks up front the entire strut assembly comes out of the car, which kinda sucks. Can be done pretty easily pending you knock the ball joint and tie rod ends loose, then you zip off the top strut nut, remove the brakes, and you are in business.

There is a slotted not on top under the top strut nut, you will either have to buy the socket or modify one to get that off.

Control arms are easy to get off, just sneak a box end wrench in and then crank the bolt loose with another.

As for subframe bushings, I saw them on autohuasaz's site I thought, they werent too pricey. I could be wrong though.

If you plan on having all that stuff replaced just do it all at the same time.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:14 AM
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Default Re: Never touched subframe stuff

thanks for the info. I was thinking of doing it all at the same time. Subframe being the last to go from the car, and first to be put back.
And as for subframe bushings, there are four of them, and Autohaus has only 2. Blau parts have them, but they are quite expensive (about $100).
well, anyway, it looks like control arms + struts could be done. I don't see any big complications with the subframe, but would like to hear from someone who had done it.
Also should I get all new bolts and nuts (for control arms, subframe). I would imagine so....
thanks again for the input
Old 05-28-2007, 11:31 AM
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Default Where are you located?

The subframe scares me. I know a select few who have had horrible stories with the subframe bolts snapping off in half and causing a huge problem.
Just be careful with them, but if somebody else is going to do them, then why not
Old 05-28-2007, 11:34 AM
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Default It's not really that hard, just time consuming

I've replaced virtually everything in my urq and my old 4kq more thatn once. If you have an air compressor, it makes it easier.
As far as the bushings, I always had a shop press them out and in.
The shop that quoted you those hours seems to be right in line.
Old 05-28-2007, 12:34 PM
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Default Re: Where are you located?

yes, that is the primary cause of my hesitation to do it myself, since I fear that something breaks. I mean those bolts were there for more than 20 years...
oh, and I'm in Vancouver, BC. The car is an out-of-province car, came from Manitoba, I think, so it's not that pretty underneath.
Old 05-28-2007, 01:33 PM
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Default If you're doing all that you might want to consider front wheel bearings too.

If the rubber parts are that bad they are probably pretty worn too & its not that hard to do them with the struts out already.
Also look over the CV joint boots.
The control arm bushings can be a PITA to get out. Some of the guys have rigged up special tools but I've had pretty good luck with drilling through the old rubber then cutting it away with an old steak knife & hacksawing the outer shell. If you can get someone to help with a press It'll make the CA bushings & wheel bearings a lot easier. A strut spring compressor is needed to work on the strut assembly. An impact wrench will make a lot of difference for the big wheel nut, strut tops & tierod ends.
And give it all a good soaking in PB blaster/WD 40 or your favorite penetraing oil first.
Old 05-28-2007, 01:45 PM
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Default Re: If you're doing all that you might want to consider front wheel bearings too.

thanks for the info.
I actually plan to replace control arms altogether, with new ones (so bushings won't be a problem). Though I'm not so sure about the subframe bushings, they could be tough to get out...
and what about the exhaust manifold, I suppose you have to take the intake manifold out to gain access, and it could be a pain to get off the motor..
thanks again for your input
Old 05-28-2007, 02:04 PM
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Default Yeah, Id be worried about those subframe bolts snapping in half

Other than the subframe stuff Id do the work myself. Good luck, whichever way you decide to go
Old 05-28-2007, 02:19 PM
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Default As for the exhaust manifold

Tough here as well. If you remove the intake manifold and move the CIS stuff out of the way you still may run into the problem of broken/snapped off exhaust manifold studs. This wouldnt be so bad if they snapped off and you could get them out with vise grips. Worst case is that they may snap off clean against the head.

You may not snap any though, its tough to say. I always expect the worst to happen
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