Thoughts on synthetic oil of I5s?
#1
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I've been running 20W50 dino oil in my CGT and doing MMO treatments before oil changes. I wazs thinking of switching to synthetic for it's cleaning properties and to help keep oil temps down (in agressive driving on the highway my oil temp goes as high as 150*C). I realize there is a chance that the synthetic will clean out the engine so well that it will begin to leak or burn oil. My plan was to switch to synthetic for 6 months or so to clena it out then switch back if it leaks or consumes oil. So, what are your thoughts on this? What weight is appropriate for I5s? Is it available in 20W50? Do I even need it that thick with synthetic?
#3
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I run a VW diesel oil filter and go extended intervals (5-6000 miles) to counter the cost. I always buy the oil on sale or in bulk as well.
#5
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The short version:
It leaked out where Dino did not.
The lifters got noisy before even the Dino 3k change interval.
The cost was insane.
20-50 Dino works on an engine run at way-the-F-open-throttle up really long hills at race speeds and the lifters are still quiet at the top. Can't say that about synth.
Works good in some cars, but not in ours.
It leaked out where Dino did not.
The lifters got noisy before even the Dino 3k change interval.
The cost was insane.
20-50 Dino works on an engine run at way-the-F-open-throttle up really long hills at race speeds and the lifters are still quiet at the top. Can't say that about synth.
Works good in some cars, but not in ours.
#6
Rockin Ronnie
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I just switched to MaxLife and went 5000 klms wihout adding any oil and mileage was quite good. I am going to stay with MaxLife (Valvoline) for a while and see what happens.
Ronnie
Ronnie
#7
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Isn't a cure all for a worn engine.
If it leaks, fix it. The dino sludge was just masking the problem.
The big deal with a GOOD synthetic oil, is that it doesn't boil off as easy. Also, it lubricates better for the same given viscosity, so you MAY be able to run a slightly lower vis and actually reduce friction that way.
I run NEO synthetic oils and occasionally Redline if I have to. My own tests have proven it's worth to me. But, for you it may be different.
All told, if you maintain a good regular change interval, even with dino oil, you'll be just fine. Mobil1 is a good compromise between a full synthetic and dino brand.<ul><li><a href="http://www.neosyntheticoil.com">NEO</a></li></ul>
If it leaks, fix it. The dino sludge was just masking the problem.
The big deal with a GOOD synthetic oil, is that it doesn't boil off as easy. Also, it lubricates better for the same given viscosity, so you MAY be able to run a slightly lower vis and actually reduce friction that way.
I run NEO synthetic oils and occasionally Redline if I have to. My own tests have proven it's worth to me. But, for you it may be different.
All told, if you maintain a good regular change interval, even with dino oil, you'll be just fine. Mobil1 is a good compromise between a full synthetic and dino brand.<ul><li><a href="http://www.neosyntheticoil.com">NEO</a></li></ul>
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#8
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It seems to be good...I can't afford or justify synth, I've been thinking of going to a blend, but that too is expensive. Check out the posts I put upover the weekend about oils for some addional info
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