What's the differnce with these spark plugs?
#1
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PMC lists a few differnt spark plugs. Which one is right for my 87.5 CGT?
W7DSR Optional
W7DC Optional
WR7DC Optional
W7DCO Optional
W7DTC Standard
Now remember, right now I have a pinging problem, so any plug that will resist pinging would be good (like maybe 1 range cooler than sotck?) I'm hoping a good tuneup will resolve it (along with tracking down a vacuum leak I have that I think is due to a cracked oil fill cap.
W7DSR Optional
W7DC Optional
WR7DC Optional
W7DCO Optional
W7DTC Standard
Now remember, right now I have a pinging problem, so any plug that will resist pinging would be good (like maybe 1 range cooler than sotck?) I'm hoping a good tuneup will resolve it (along with tracking down a vacuum leak I have that I think is due to a cracked oil fill cap.
#2
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If you have a pinging problem on an 87.5(doesn't this have a knock sensor?), I would check the timing, it may be too far advanced, and if that's fine you should check the knock sensor. Cooler spark plugs would help with that, and I think that the heat ranges are the difference between these plugs(not sure about that, I don't know that much about spark plugs). OTOH, a tune-up could be all you need.
#4
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If you Oil fill cap is leaking, then you will almost definatly have a vaccuum leak. I discovered this accidentally when I was fiddling around under the hood with the motor running. I popped the cap off, hoping to see my camshaft spinning; however I was quited disturbed when the motor stalled as soon as i got the cap off.
Spark plugs:
There's more of a difference between them than just tempature...
Some of them are super, or platnium.. Look at the pictures and you can see the difference in electrode and labeling. I think the ones that most people like and i'm gonna order are PN F1000-11488
Good luck
Spark plugs:
There's more of a difference between them than just tempature...
Some of them are super, or platnium.. Look at the pictures and you can see the difference in electrode and labeling. I think the ones that most people like and i'm gonna order are PN F1000-11488
Good luck
#6
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I have an NF eng, CIS-E III, and timing is adjustable. Just like CGTBRAD says there are many factors that can cause pinging. The new version knock sensors have gold-plated contacts for better connection, and don't forget to torque it correctly. You may want to try re-torquing your sensor (22nm?), as I've heard this helps. Don't forget basics like vacuum leaks, timing, but also
look at fuel quality, engine temperature (too hot?) and possible carbon deposits due to age/valve stem seal deterioration, etc.
look at fuel quality, engine temperature (too hot?) and possible carbon deposits due to age/valve stem seal deterioration, etc.
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#9
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The factory book says to torque to 20-25Nm which is 15-18 ft lb.
Do you have a "check engine" light? Supposedly if there is a failure in the circuit, the lamp should light up(meaning broken or shorted wiring it is too "dumb" to know if it is not getting a signal). If the light flashes while driving, the ign is at max retard. There is a test routine for calling up codes from the system. According to the manual it is erased when the engine is shut off, so it has to be done after driving for at least 5 min or so.
Do you have a "check engine" light? Supposedly if there is a failure in the circuit, the lamp should light up(meaning broken or shorted wiring it is too "dumb" to know if it is not getting a signal). If the light flashes while driving, the ign is at max retard. There is a test routine for calling up codes from the system. According to the manual it is erased when the engine is shut off, so it has to be done after driving for at least 5 min or so.
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