nize

by the way, i did also check the footwells to insure that the knock control and fuel injection control units are well covered and dry.

photo of the knock control unit on driver side;



and the fuel injection control unit on passenger side;

one5k

i would still pull the bags off of them and disconnect them. my ignition unit
filled with water and it appeared dry. it runs right in the harness.

Prospeeder

Take that knock control box out and actually open it and look at the board. I have seen a few of those completley green and corroded inside, even though all the plastic was intact and it apeared fine. Both cars experienced rough running or no start no spark randomly

audiqv8

Remove fuel control module and open it up. BTW the fuel control module send a signal to the ignition control module.

nize

alright, i've removed both the fuel injection control unit and the knock control unit out of the car for inspection;



the knock control unit looks good;

nize

the fuel injection unit also looks good;





upon closer inspection, i did notice a one pin that seems to have some type of resin or glue on it, as seen in the lower left of this close up photo;



this was also noticed on some other pins as seen in the top center of this photo;



i've cleaned both up as best as i could using cotton swabs (q-tip) and alcohol. i plan to re-install these back in the car later today and see if it will fire up.

any advice would be appreciated.

also, nobody has any comments on whether the ignitor is what is seen in next to the coil in the earlier pic? thanks.

Prospeeder

yes the thing next to the coil is the igniter

nize

before removing the fuel injection control unit and the knock control unit, i tried starting the car and it started up just fine. knowing that it would most likely die and leave me stranded, i chose to remove the parts anyway just to inspect them.

after re-installing the fuel injection control unit and the knock control unit, the car started right up again.

i'm hesitant to drive it anywhere for fear it may die again, so i'm going to try starting the engine at various times for a few days just to make sure it continues to work.

audiqv8

Next time the engine refuse to start, try pull codes. BTW that residue on the circuit board is flux which is used to help solder flow. It would appear that the circuit board was once worked on. If you have a soldering iron you could reheat the solder joint again. It could be that at one time their were cracks in the solder joint due to vibration over time and someone reflow the joints.

nize

well, the car started up fine until yesterday when the engine abruptly died about one minute after it cold-started with the same no-spark issue. checking the engine codes shows the;
4-4-4-4 which means it does not detect any fault.

can anyone tell me how the engine determines the difference between hot and cold idle? i'm wondering if perhaps that portion is faulty.

i guess i could try changing out the coil+igniter again, perhaps i somehow ended up with a brand-new faulty one?

i'm running out of ideas now.