1990 200TQ

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Old 09-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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Default 1990 200TQ

Hello all.

I have recently purchased a 1990 200 TQ Avant
for $500 with almost 110k miles on it.
As you can guess it has issues and a laundry list
of things that need to be fixed or replaced.
I'll try to be gentile on the Q's, coz I have a few.

It still had its original Tbelt so I've torn down the
entire nose so I can more easily replace it.
I'm getting a timing belt kit on one of the online places
and it comes with all the items needed that are recommended
that should be replaced at the same time.

Now for the Q's.

The PO said it has a strange starting issue(sometimes)
He said that you have to crank it for 5seconds, wait 30seconds,
then crank again and it should start.
If you start it agian within the hour its fine but anything
beyond that it's same starting procedure initial start.
I have found this:
Hard starting from a loss of residual fuel system pressure, can be caused by leaky injectors, a bad fuel pump check valve, a leak in the warm up regulator or from a leaky cold start valve. The pressure regulator valve in the fuel distributor can also be leaking on the 1986-88 5000TQ (early 1989 200TQ) and this will cause a loss of residual pressure. The later 1989-90 200TQ which uses the external pressure regulator may be leaking as well.
Which would be the most likely culprit in this case?

The OEM airbox is a PITA as we all know, but is there
a way of deleting all of the mess and replacing it with,
lets say.....a cold air intake?
I have read that this is not possible.
It would make sence judging by the mess of hoses and wires that I have found underneat and on the back of it. (need to replace headlite bucket due to many broken parts on it, so I removed it and the airbox)
Anyone maybe have a good used headlite(passenger) with bucket?

Since I will be replacing all drive belts while doing the timing
belt, I already removed the alt belt but I seem to have a problem moving the AC compressor enough so I can remove that belt too.
What is the procedure in loosening up the compressor enough so one can remove the belt?

Also when I exposed the crank pully/harmonic ballancer I noticed
that the rubber has started to fall apart.
I would like to replace it but I can't seem to find anyone online who carries it.
Is this a dealer only item?
And if yes, how much would it run?

I have some more but I'll give everyone a little breather and time to answer these Q's.

Louis.

Oooh, PS: anyone have a good set of taillites they want to part with? Its the ones with the amber directionals and center incerts
Old 09-12-2012, 03:19 PM
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On your hard starting issue, I would think its your fuel pump check valve.
When you shut the car off, gas runs back to the tank, but the check valve is supposed to only allow a certain amount to go back to the tank. Sounds like yours is stuck open, allowing the fuel line to completely empty. It takes a few cranks to get the fuel pressure thru the entire line before it will start.

Check valve is probably stuck due to rust in a 20+ yr old car.
You can try a good water remover/lubricant like Seafoam/MarvMysteryOil to try and free up the valve, but 50/50 that it will free up.

Next would be the fuel pressure regulator. A bit more expensive on the newer MC1's than the older 5000's.

A/C drivebelt nuts have to be loosened from the top and bottom. sjmautotechnik.com/troubleshooting may have a photo.

Buy a Bentley, Chiltons or Haynes manual. You're going to need one.

Check zeBay on the others.

Last edited by audi_marv; 09-12-2012 at 03:21 PM.
Old 09-15-2012, 07:56 PM
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Thank you very much Audi_Marv.

I will try that first.

I have to get the Bentley manuals for sure
since they will be a big help in locating
all the engine systems and components.

Louis.
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