Reinman

Problem Description: I have some drivetrain howl in the rear section of the car. Additionally, the front acts like it is locked like a limted slip with a slight rubber wheel chatter when I pull forward with the wheels slightly turned, then it acts as if it releases and then steers freely. (The steering rack was replaced and all hydro lines). Again, the front acts like a locked differential for a short time, and the rear end has a distinct howl more from the right and center. That sound is noticeable at all speeds an varies with speed.

I just bought four wheel sensors (the truck versions for $38.07 each), as I have heard that the variable slip of the front and rear diffs in this car are activated or deactivated based on wheel slippage being sensed. So, if the wheel sensors are out, is the car going to act like I have described above? (a locked differential in the rear, and a limited slip in the front?)

I look forward to some advice.

Thank you,

Rein D. Gillstrom

Reinman

I should note, that I have not put the new wheel sensors in yet either. I have the ABS light flashing so the new wheel sensors should take care of that, along with a new Nitrogen Bumb. But do the wheel sensors also effect my driveline concerns? (I should note that the center carrier bearing was replaced as well).

V8QinNJ

The wheel sensors lock/unlock the center diff until the abs computer says there is a false signal.

After starting the car (before you drive it) if you press the abs off button to disable the abs the car will drive fine from the start.

The bomb & stearing rack have nothing to do with the wheels binding or the howl the rear of the car.

The howl is 99% one (or both) of the wheel bearings at the real wheels. Not a task for the light of heart. Or one without the correct tools.

The howl is the bearings way of telling you that it needs to be replaced. It starts only happening at a higher rate of speed, and slowly happens to occur at all speeds. This is when the bearing is close to failure. (hint don't let this happen).

To replace it you will need a "Hub Shark" and a shop press. This is of course if you want to leave the knuckle on the car. If you remove the knuckle all you will need is that shop press.. (and the new bearing of course). With all the right tools I'd expect about 2.5 /3 Hrs per side. The wheel bearing is about a $40.00 part.

Reinman

Thank you so much for the advice. And, yes I knew the bomb and rack would have nothing to do with the binding. The bomb was mentioned because that can attribute to abs failure due to loss of pressure with that (mine is leaking right now - I have new).

After I get the wheel sensors in - I'll start on those wheel bearings.

I love this car . . . it has 258,000 miles on it. I think there is another 100K in it - although I would mind finding another engine to put when this one goes.

Thanks again.

Rein