chuckles4kq

I've got a puzzle going with this 200 turbo I've been trying to get working. when I drive the car, after about 2 miles of driving, the brakes lock up in the front. It's a gradual thing and I can usually make it another mile or so before I've really got to stop. But I was wondering if there's anybody out there that knows of this problem. Also, if anybody knows the procedure for bleeding out the entire brake system (abs unit, etc), please let me know.. I might just be screwing it up the way I'm trying to do it.

ARK

Maybe the differential is locking up (insufficient lube), there was a safety recall on this.

chuckles4kq

?Thanks for the input.. But I am certain it's the brakes as the rotors & pads start to smoke & get really really hot... so.. that's a good indicator for me.

SteveAngry

they've been known to leak internally and when they get hot the brakes stick...

Steve
Michigan

quattro5

yup. and/or calipers - if pistons don't retract they can heat up and bind and heat and bind etc.

DaveN

but I had the same thing happen when I replaced the brake booster. The rebuilder had milled off the attachment surface shorting the stroke. Would bind up after a couple of miles just like yours. I ended up adding shims between the booster and master.

chuckles4kq

I'm deeply in suspicion of the master cylinder now. after putting the car on jackstands and just letting it run (get hot, blow hot air on the master/booster), the brakes would still lock up. Perhaps I'll try this 'shim' idea DaveN suggested. what thickness is a save one to apply for that solution do you suppose? Dave?

chuckles4kq

okay.. with the master out of the car, I shoved the piston in.. and it didn't come right back out to me. I had to twist it and it would pop back out... Does this sound like the problem? It would seem that if it were hot, it would be less of a problem... But I guess that depends on what expands more.

Any input would be good. I don't know if it should slide easily in, and slide easily back out. Does astroglide work well as brake fluid?

DaveN

I think I ended up about 50 thou.

Desert Fox

Experienced similar issues with my 1989 200. When driving, the brakes would begin to seize for several miles, and then release. The brake pedal also become spongy and less responsive as the brakes begin to heat up? This progressive "brake fade" was a result of literally boiling the brake fluid.

Many brake problems can be traced back to the brake pressure accumulator, otherwise known as "the bomb". Generally the life on these is about seven years. If you're still running the original on your 89 200, you're way overdue for replacement. These are a bit pricey, and can run about $600 at some dealers, but can be found for $260-$300 from parts wholesalers. Would suggest replacing the bomb, bleeding out the system, and replacing pads.