'89 200 TQ problem, it sounds like a tractor
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I'm looking to buy a car and went to go look at a '89 200 TQ but the engine sounds like a tractor or a diesel engine. The ticking is coming from directly underneath the turbo and it is extremely loud and then it got quieter after we took it for a short spin around the block. It has 250,xxx km's(155,xxx miles) and he wants $2000 (CDN) but I'm hoping he'll take $1500 for it. Is this the lifters? I have read posts about people adding oil additives to make them quieter. I am contemplating wether to take it to a inspection or not, as I have little mechanical knowledge. Worth getting it you guys think? Will it be expensive to fix?
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My car with less miles would have cost a fortune if I hadn't done all the work myself. Just in parts you will more than double the cost of the car shortly. If you can wrench, this forum will help you and it could be a great car.
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Audis are wonderful cars, fun to drive,but do require a certain amount of mechanical work when you are looking at something as old a 1989. Without mechanical skill, tools, and know-how, this car is going to frustrate you, unless you have good financial resources to pay a good mechanic on a regular basis to keep your car running. Audi parts can be expensive.
However, if you still like the car, have a good mechanic that you trust look at the car. If need be, pay for his opinion to tell you what is making the motor so loud, and what the cost of repair would be.
Regarding the odometer reading, Audis are famous for going many many miles/Kilometers before major engine rebuild, as much as 350,000 miles. I don't know what that translates into metric distance.
Hope this helps,
Regards, Rooster
However, if you still like the car, have a good mechanic that you trust look at the car. If need be, pay for his opinion to tell you what is making the motor so loud, and what the cost of repair would be.
Regarding the odometer reading, Audis are famous for going many many miles/Kilometers before major engine rebuild, as much as 350,000 miles. I don't know what that translates into metric distance.
Hope this helps,
Regards, Rooster
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At their age and mileage(kilos in your case), there will be a lot of parts that will need repair/replacement. More so than other makes of cars, IMO.
So, if you can't do your own repairs, you'll pay through the nose for a mechanic to get it to run right.
Worn hydraulic lifters and cracked exhaust manifolds are a given with these Audis. The noise you hear is either or both.
So, if you can't do your own repairs, you'll pay through the nose for a mechanic to get it to run right.
Worn hydraulic lifters and cracked exhaust manifolds are a given with these Audis. The noise you hear is either or both.
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I'm in the process of repairing it, with help from Tom Serrago. In my case I've discovered that the exhaust manifold apparently has no cracks, but is slightly warped and will require milling to flatten its face. It also has three broken exhaust manifold studs, which I'll have a machinist with a Bridgeport mill extract for me.
To do this on a turbo 5000/200 car is a major undertaking. I've removed the front of the car and to remove the manifold I needed to remove the head together with downpipe, wastegate, turbo, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as one giant, heavy, assembly.
I've seen this job quoted at $1200. In my opinion that's cheap. You be the judge of whether you can afford this sort of repair cost on a fairly regular basis. Or do you have an unusually complete set of tools and are looking for a new hobby?
To do this on a turbo 5000/200 car is a major undertaking. I've removed the front of the car and to remove the manifold I needed to remove the head together with downpipe, wastegate, turbo, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as one giant, heavy, assembly.
I've seen this job quoted at $1200. In my opinion that's cheap. You be the judge of whether you can afford this sort of repair cost on a fairly regular basis. Or do you have an unusually complete set of tools and are looking for a new hobby?
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You can't see a cracked manifold but a tell tale sign is a whitened area when looking from under the car at the EM bolts. You should be able to tell a valve tapping vs pfifting of a EM leak. Check operation of clutch trans etc too!