Ah nuts - snapped an exhaust manifold stud flush with the head...
#1
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Well, I got the head back from the rebuilder about a month and a half ago, and for some reason they did not pull the three exhaust manifold studs that I was unable to pull so I figured I would try again to pull them.
Two of them came out with copious amounts of PB Blaster (love that stuff), but the third one snapped off. Sh*t.
Tried to drill it out and use an easy out, but then _that_ snapped off too!
So I guess I will take it to the rebuilder tomorrow and ask them nicely to drill it out because I have no patience today.
Always something....
Two of them came out with copious amounts of PB Blaster (love that stuff), but the third one snapped off. Sh*t.
Tried to drill it out and use an easy out, but then _that_ snapped off too!
So I guess I will take it to the rebuilder tomorrow and ask them nicely to drill it out because I have no patience today.
Always something....
#2
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I would recommend that they carefully machine out the broken mess with an end mill and then drill and install a heli coil. Not a big deal but not much fun either...
#3
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The pin type are too fragile and if they break off you have to drill through hardened steel to get them out. The socket type are much less likely to break.
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But I was amazed how quick the cobalt bits went dull, the hardening on the easy out must be doing a number on them.
Was hoping to get the studs in and the exhaust manifold/turbo mated to the head just to say I did something over the Christmas holiday. Oh well.
Was hoping to get the studs in and the exhaust manifold/turbo mated to the head just to say I did something over the Christmas holiday. Oh well.
#5
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But, I don't know who else. Sears makes the "female" socket head easy outs now. Haven't seen the "male" socket head easy outs yet. I have the Snap On ones, but only because I found them in a used tool store. I can't bring myself to pay Snap On prices. Mechanics "owe their soul to the company store". Snap On hits them for $20.00 a week forever. The financing is so easy that there must be a huge profit in it for the Snap On guy.
#6
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Maybe try wire feed welding(MIG) a nut to whats left of the broken stud/easy-out. We do this all the time at work, works beautifully. The heat from welding should also free the stuck stud, just put a wrench on the welded nut and remove. Less of a chance of boogerin' up the threads than drilling and easy outing.
#7
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The wheel (lug) bolt was frozen, so I welded a bolt to the lug bolt. I am embarassed to say that the weld broke. Then, with a better weld the the bolt sheared. So, I managed to weld a new nut on to the bolt. The nut went round. Finally got it off by driving on a 7/8ths impact socket, then using a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 8 foot length of 2" pipe, I got it off. Now you know why Audi wheels have those burn spots on them.
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#9
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I just put some spots on the side of the head near the stud. =( I had it done professionally done at a machine shop.
#10
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One of those projects that you keep looking at the problem trying to think of a new and bigger solution.
When done there are tools all over the place and you just look at the part wondering how it could have come to that.
When done there are tools all over the place and you just look at the part wondering how it could have come to that.
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