Boerge

Do I have something that pulls electricity, or is there something wrong with my alternator?
Do they have some diodes in them?
I have replaced the battery, the car works fine when I charge the battery and start and drive it.
Only after 2-3 days it will not start anymore.

TIA

Boerge

tonyj

If it reads 12V or less then the Alt is probably bad.

There are a number of other issues that could cause this too.

Get your battery load tested at a parts store.

CARSNPLANES

If it is a 5000, there is no voltmeter, but you can put a multi-meter on battey while running to see if voltage is between 12.5 and 14.3. If it is then alternator is good but battery is not "holding" a charge. You can confirm by disconnecting batt for a few days after driving, if it's charging correctly, and see if it still has juice to start. Other than confirming batt is good is to see, sometimes the glove compartment light switch is mis adjusted and the light stays on or the reading lights/interior are on or not being shut off by the door switch or timer.
There have been instances where the afterrun devices are not shutting off when supposed to after the engine cools down (rad fan, coolant pump, CIS inj fan).
Check that stuff.

2quattroaudis

My car is an 86.The SOB, goes dead too. However I believe I discovered why.
I let car run. Lift hood , admire the machine etc. Then turn off car and go back under hood.Low and behold the isv, i think. It is a cylinder on the left top of engine bay.
one electrical output and two hoses of the end.Know what I mean??????
Anyways the damn thing was still a buzzing for who knows how long. After key was off.
Moral of this is that the buzzing , I have no doubt killed battery. I installed a battery kill switch. A little more work, but less chance of having faliure of battery.
i hope it works for you.

Will Ng

If your ISV is still running after shutdown, perhaps the ISV control module has a stuck relay contact within it.

2quattroaudis

ah who and the what now>

can this little isv module be fiddled with?

icon73

in the climate control unit, with the key in full accessory mode you can scroll through 22 different settings and number 11 is a volt reading. do a search on using this function on this forum.

SteveJ_in_TX

The following is done with the engine and all electrical accessories off. Oh and you will need beer for afterward )

Disconnect one lead of your battery and place a digital multimeter in line with one of the battery leads, set to milliamps. Check the reading and write it down.

Go to fuse box and pull one fuse (remembering where it goes, may want to take a digital pic for reference), then check the multimeter reading. Did it go down? If no, then that's not the circuit at fault. Repeat with the next circuit.

Bear in mind that the clock uses a tiny bit of current so that one is normal to use a bit of juice. Also the dome light circuit uses juice with doors open, but with all the doors closed and dome light off, you should not see much if any current use (roll down windows and peer in to get the DMM reading on that circuit).

One of the common faults I have heard of is the courtesy lights on the visor sticks on, or the trunk light.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Boerge

Voltmeter say 14.1 V while running so it is charging.
Is there a diode or something in the alternator that can be damaged, that drains current after shutdown?
Some people were telling me this.

Thanks for help

Boerge

tonyj

The wire bundle that goes into the drivers side trunk hinge wires break in all these T44s.

The wire bundle in the accordian rubber in the drivers side door hinge also gets breaks and shorts a lot.