5000CDQturbo

1987 5000 CDqt 5 speed
quick question about bleeding the master cylinder clutch slave for the car above. I had a look at the Bentley last night and wanted to make sure before I did this job ....Q: do I have to disconnect the Slave from the rod before I bleed the system or can I bleed the slave still attached to the transmission ?

( the clutch pedal is going right to the floor in order to change gears. It has been slowly getting more difficult to change gears. )

AudiSport4000

Slave stays in car, all hydraulic lines connected.
Have a friend help you. Get an old jar and put some brake fluid in the bottom, get some hose taht fits over the bleeder valve and a small wrench that fits the bleeder screw.

Open bleeder port, push pedal to the floor and keep it there for a bit, then close the bleeder valve then pull the pedal up (or release it).
Repeat this process many times. Also make sure the end of the hose thats in the jar catching the old fluid is submersed, you dont want air bubbles.

Thats how I always do it. I do have a power bleeder but for some reason havnt used it yet.

Kneale Brownson

You must have too many friends willing to work their leg muscles, eh?

Audi specifies use of a power bleeder. Much less likely to get air bubbles if you're not pumping the pedal. Everything else in Audisport4K's description is the process I follow.

If you don't have a power bleeder, now is the time to get one.

AudiSport4000

Maybe I didnt understand the workings of it

Someday I'll try it.

Kneale Brownson

Do you have a pump-up version or one with a connection for air? For the latter, you need a valve to shut down the pressure to below 20 pounds.

When I first got an Eezebleed, I didn't have a way to control the pressure easily, so I used a spare tire blown up to 18-20 pounds as my air source. If I were doing it over, I'd make one using a small pump-up sprayer like <a href="http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm">THIS</a>.

AudiSport4000

Its pretty nice. I think I tried to use it once after I did my motor swap but of course I probably couldnt figure it out. Go figure, I can get an MC1 to run in a 4000 but cant operate a simple bleeder

Kneale Brownson

Generally, you fill the bleeder with brake fluid, attach its hose with cap in place of the reservoir cap, pump it up to 15 pounds and go open a bleeder screw. The 15 pounds should push the fluid out of the open bleeder. Close that bleeder, check that you still have fluid in your tool's reservoir, open the next bleeder screw, etc. Much less likely to overpump the brake MC that way, and much less likely to get air bubbles on the return of the pedal. If you have the inside hose of the tool's cap extended far enough to reach the top of your maximum fluid level in the reservoir, as described in the referenced description, you automatically have the reservoir at the right level when you're done. I modified my Eezebleed to do that.

AudiSport4000

Sounds easier than I was making it out to be.

I was worried about something happening and the brake fluid reservior overflowing.

Maybe I should give this a shot (bleeding that is, not overfilling anything)

5000CDQturbo

thansk Guys I do have a pressure bleeder /home made but works great .

Kneale Brownson

I flush my brake systems each spring when I change the wheels from winter to summer tires. I usually run a pint of fluid through the passenger rear bleeder and half a pint through all the other bleeders.