Break Fluid Rez Bone Dry
#1
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Any particular brand of DOT 4 I should get? Also, what the hell could've caused this, it was full month ago? Breaks are super scary (go all the way to the floor) but I've been driving to and from work (about 4 miles total) for a couple of days like this am I scewing anything else up bigtime with the Resivoir being dry?
Once I fill it back up with the DOT 4 do I have to bleed the air out of the system? If so, how?
I know I need a new bomb so I haven't checked the fluid levels till today so I guess it's my dumbass fault if I screwed something else up for not checking the obvious 4 days ago.
TIA
-Kev
Once I fill it back up with the DOT 4 do I have to bleed the air out of the system? If so, how?
I know I need a new bomb so I haven't checked the fluid levels till today so I guess it's my dumbass fault if I screwed something else up for not checking the obvious 4 days ago.
TIA
-Kev
#2
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Fix it now!
You don't want to get caught without brakes!
Last time I shopped I looked for fluid with the highet tmp properties. I think Castrol was the best bang for buck in the store I was in.
To bleed the brakes you need a friend to help. Ideally you need one guy exercising the brake pedal and the other guy under the car turning the bleed valve open and closed.
1) top up reservoir
2) PUMP pedal 3 or 4 times
3) Keep pedal pressed down and held there after last of the pumps.
4) Whil it is held down the guy under the car opens the valve to let the bad fluid and air out. Be sure to close the valve tightly.
5) repeat until pedal pressure becomes consistently hard and all the air and dirty ld fluid is flushed.
This will also help you brake lins last longer... especially if they don't get broken by you driving into someone!
You might want a small length of hose and a tin canto catch the fluid in.
HTH
You don't want to get caught without brakes!
Last time I shopped I looked for fluid with the highet tmp properties. I think Castrol was the best bang for buck in the store I was in.
To bleed the brakes you need a friend to help. Ideally you need one guy exercising the brake pedal and the other guy under the car turning the bleed valve open and closed.
1) top up reservoir
2) PUMP pedal 3 or 4 times
3) Keep pedal pressed down and held there after last of the pumps.
4) Whil it is held down the guy under the car opens the valve to let the bad fluid and air out. Be sure to close the valve tightly.
5) repeat until pedal pressure becomes consistently hard and all the air and dirty ld fluid is flushed.
This will also help you brake lins last longer... especially if they don't get broken by you driving into someone!
You might want a small length of hose and a tin canto catch the fluid in.
HTH
#3
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I've got to say you RAWK! Everytime I've got something going on with "Jendra" (my car) I get a quick response from (most of the time) you and others. My Bentley is at home and I'm not... any way you can give a quick description of where the bleed valve is and if I need some sort of crazy tool to turn it open and closed?
Thanks again!
Post Script: Bleed the lines with the car on right?
Thanks again!
Post Script: Bleed the lines with the car on right?
#5
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FIND the LEAK If you lost fluid unless you repair it you R putting yourself & others in danger Also Castrol LMA brake fluid is one of the better products out there ive used it for along time in street cars as well as some of our dirt race cars. However right now im using CASTROL SRF brake fluid its the same fluid used in INDY & F1 cars $$$$$ hope this helps
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Gold Bottle... SynPower... exceeds DOT 3 & DOT 4.
Bleeder screws??? Can anyone help out on where they are at. I really don't want to drive ALL the way home to get the Bentley.
THANKS!
Bleeder screws??? Can anyone help out on where they are at. I really don't want to drive ALL the way home to get the Bentley.
THANKS!
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#8
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Behind the wheel. Look for where brake fluid lines have ended and search nearby. You will find a small grease nipple kind of thingy. Oil squirts out through the center hole when you open it.
#9
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You'll need an open box end wrench... 10mm I think. Slide it over the brake line and then down onto the nut.
And like 4x5x5 says: you don't start the car to bleed the brakes.
And like 4x5x5 says: you don't start the car to bleed the brakes.
#10
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This goes a lot smoother with someone helping you. First thing, fill up the reservoir with brake fluid. Close the cap. Open whichever bleeder valve you will be working on. Place a catch pan or plastic bottle under the valve. Have someone else pump the brakes until there is no air coming out of the valve, just pure brake fluid. Close valve, check fluid level, add any if necessary, then move onto the next wheel. It's not hard, but it takes a little while to get it right.
HTH,
Jim
HTH,
Jim