A cheap and easy method of improving a high mileage car's ride
#11
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sounds like a deal. the inserts in my wifes old 86 aren't that old, but it rides lousy. for $10 buck a side, that's not bad. I was just on the worldpac site and clicked all the way down to the right parts. there are two brands shown. one was kyb, the other was corteco-fruedsomething.
how can i tell which is for my car? they look identical. also, once you click on the product you want, where is the "buy" and check out process?
how can i tell which is for my car? they look identical. also, once you click on the product you want, where is the "buy" and check out process?
#12
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I've bought and installed many parts that originated with Worldpac. Many seem to be identical to the OE part . . . but not all. For example I've been told that it's possible to buy OE brake pads with the same OE compound from the Audi channel only. The Worldpac variety, even from the same manufacturer, has different compounds.
I'm impressed for the most part with the quality of Worldpac supplied parts. Birdman's experience is the first I've heard of a quality problem with a Worldpac supplied part.
I'm impressed for the most part with the quality of Worldpac supplied parts. Birdman's experience is the first I've heard of a quality problem with a Worldpac supplied part.
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Before removing the old mounts, carefuly measure (I used a dial caliper) the distance from the outside mounting bolt (with a 13mm nut) to the strut. (As an example, my passenger side was 1.99 inches.)
Then when you're tightening the new mount's screws, position the strut so that the dimension remains the same as it was for the old mount. That way you shouldn't need a new alignment.
While you're doing this job, you may as well replace the strut dust shields (or "boots") if the existing ones are torn. (They're also cheap. My old ones were frazzled and torn to pieces, providing no protection to the strut insert piston.) This shield also keeps grit out of the strut bearing.
To replace strut mounts and shields, allow two hours for each strut. (Popping the upper end of the new shield over the lip on the upper spring mount can be frustrating.)
Tools needed: 7 mm Allen 3/8" socket, 22 mm box wrench, 3/8" torque wrench, 13 mm socket, floor jack
Then when you're tightening the new mount's screws, position the strut so that the dimension remains the same as it was for the old mount. That way you shouldn't need a new alignment.
While you're doing this job, you may as well replace the strut dust shields (or "boots") if the existing ones are torn. (They're also cheap. My old ones were frazzled and torn to pieces, providing no protection to the strut insert piston.) This shield also keeps grit out of the strut bearing.
To replace strut mounts and shields, allow two hours for each strut. (Popping the upper end of the new shield over the lip on the upper spring mount can be frustrating.)
Tools needed: 7 mm Allen 3/8" socket, 22 mm box wrench, 3/8" torque wrench, 13 mm socket, floor jack
#14
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especially if the strut installer used the old strut mounts. (Heck, I was gonna re-use my old mounts until an experienced mechanic suggested replacing them.)
Until replacing the strut mounts my car rode lousy, too.
If you closely examine the existing strut mounts you may see some cracks in the rubber. I gather that even small cracks are bad news.
Let us know what happens.
Until replacing the strut mounts my car rode lousy, too.
If you closely examine the existing strut mounts you may see some cracks in the rubber. I gather that even small cracks are bad news.
Let us know what happens.
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There are many Worldpac resellers on the web. Maybe a garage that's local to you is a Worldpac reseller. I like Scott Mockry, who's provided valuable tech help and is a Worldpac reseller. His site (choose Products / Parts Catalog to view a Worldpac catalog with shopping cart):<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com">http://www.sjmautotechnik.com</a</li></ul>
#16
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since the installer is the same one typing these words, it's a safe bet the cheap bastard used the old strut mounts and they are definitely the originals. with 196K on the clock, I'm betting they are a pretty good culprit.
i even changed the lower inner control arm bushings cause they were loose as a goose. i had hoped the ride would dramatically improve. it was better, at least the wheel wasn't hopping all over the place, but not as nice as I'd like.
i'll look for cracks tomorrow, but even if i don't find them, i think it's cheap enough to swap and check it out.
i even changed the lower inner control arm bushings cause they were loose as a goose. i had hoped the ride would dramatically improve. it was better, at least the wheel wasn't hopping all over the place, but not as nice as I'd like.
i'll look for cracks tomorrow, but even if i don't find them, i think it's cheap enough to swap and check it out.
#17
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i've recieved temp sensors that haven't lasted a fraction of the factory ones. now i just get stuff like that from the dealer. but i weasled my way inot a discount there so it's not too pricey.
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