Cold Start Issue - Part II
#1
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Howdy,
I am back! Probably a bit poorer than before after shelling out some money into repair work on the recently acquired Audi 200 Quattro Turbo.
I found this cool dude who did some of the work for cheap and I am content with everything he has done for me. He owns three Audis himself and have worked on all of his cars. Fixing Audis is more of a hobby for him. For what I paid him--I cannot complain, he kicks ***! However, there is one nagging problem, which he cannot fix although he put some effort into it.
I am hoping someone could shed some light into this matter to redirect him to the culprit or source where he should be looking at to fix the "cold start" problem.
Perhaps I should tune-up the car first and see where we stand with the hard/cold start issues and then move forward from there. Here is the problem along with the fixes this dude performed on my car...
The cold start problem became progressively worse and we are at loss as to where it stems from. Initially, it was a hard start issue and then after the idle was adjusted after replacing my starter (he revved it up to 1K)...it gradually became a cold start issue along with the hard start.
Every morning, I have to remove the michelin man hose, open the flap, and spray lighter fluid into it to get the car to start. It used to start up in one try and now I have to do it two or three times to get it to fire up. I was hoping that it would be an intermittent process where sometimes it would start and sometimes not but now it's a must-do to get my car to start everyday.
Once I get the car fired up in the morning--I dont need to do it again till the next day when the car goes cold again. I noticed that the more time that goes by from the initial start, the "colder" the engine becomes where I need to spray starting fluid again to get it to start after 6 or more hours go by. I make it a point during my work shift to start the car after 4 hours to keep it from going totally "cold" on me.
Anyway, lucky for me, I get to travel from client to client during the day so that keeps my car from going cold. Anyway, the dude fixed some of the wirings that were frayed and worn out; replaced my radiator because there was a leak; replaced my starter because we suspected that was the culprit; he checked my vacuum hoses and fixed leaks; he mentioned something about fixing a sensor but not sure which one; and he adjusted my idle to rev a bit higher than before the cold start issue became worst.
The thing about the idle, it used to idle really low and quiet to the point where I did not see the the needle move on the tachometer (was usually resting in zero) and now it revs up to 1K and drops to 500 and revs back up and drops again--it bounces like that constantly. This idling activity can be felt when I come to a standstill--is that normal? Could this erratic idling be contributing to the cold start issue?
Is there any wiring work he should be checking related to the cold start injector? Is there a way to test the cold start injector itself? Is this a cold start injector issue? Any help or light you can shed into this matter would be helpful.
This is my last cry for help before I bring it to a mechanic who can address this issue but before I do that--I would like to know what I am working with here.
Thanks in advance for your help.
-John
I am back! Probably a bit poorer than before after shelling out some money into repair work on the recently acquired Audi 200 Quattro Turbo.
I found this cool dude who did some of the work for cheap and I am content with everything he has done for me. He owns three Audis himself and have worked on all of his cars. Fixing Audis is more of a hobby for him. For what I paid him--I cannot complain, he kicks ***! However, there is one nagging problem, which he cannot fix although he put some effort into it.
I am hoping someone could shed some light into this matter to redirect him to the culprit or source where he should be looking at to fix the "cold start" problem.
Perhaps I should tune-up the car first and see where we stand with the hard/cold start issues and then move forward from there. Here is the problem along with the fixes this dude performed on my car...
The cold start problem became progressively worse and we are at loss as to where it stems from. Initially, it was a hard start issue and then after the idle was adjusted after replacing my starter (he revved it up to 1K)...it gradually became a cold start issue along with the hard start.
Every morning, I have to remove the michelin man hose, open the flap, and spray lighter fluid into it to get the car to start. It used to start up in one try and now I have to do it two or three times to get it to fire up. I was hoping that it would be an intermittent process where sometimes it would start and sometimes not but now it's a must-do to get my car to start everyday.
Once I get the car fired up in the morning--I dont need to do it again till the next day when the car goes cold again. I noticed that the more time that goes by from the initial start, the "colder" the engine becomes where I need to spray starting fluid again to get it to start after 6 or more hours go by. I make it a point during my work shift to start the car after 4 hours to keep it from going totally "cold" on me.
Anyway, lucky for me, I get to travel from client to client during the day so that keeps my car from going cold. Anyway, the dude fixed some of the wirings that were frayed and worn out; replaced my radiator because there was a leak; replaced my starter because we suspected that was the culprit; he checked my vacuum hoses and fixed leaks; he mentioned something about fixing a sensor but not sure which one; and he adjusted my idle to rev a bit higher than before the cold start issue became worst.
The thing about the idle, it used to idle really low and quiet to the point where I did not see the the needle move on the tachometer (was usually resting in zero) and now it revs up to 1K and drops to 500 and revs back up and drops again--it bounces like that constantly. This idling activity can be felt when I come to a standstill--is that normal? Could this erratic idling be contributing to the cold start issue?
Is there any wiring work he should be checking related to the cold start injector? Is there a way to test the cold start injector itself? Is this a cold start injector issue? Any help or light you can shed into this matter would be helpful.
This is my last cry for help before I bring it to a mechanic who can address this issue but before I do that--I would like to know what I am working with here.
Thanks in advance for your help.
-John
#2
AudiWorld Super User
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Still sounds to me like there are some present, IMHO. Vac leaks can create starting problems and idle issues. Wonder if your cold start valve is working too. If there are vac leaks and if the CSV is working the car should still start, but if there are vac leaks and the CSV is not working then it could be more difficult to get going.
I am unsure what temp sender triggers the CSV on the 200 though. I think its one of the pin type coolant sensors near the drivers front of the cylinder head.
Erratic idle could be a vac leak, bad throttle/idle switch, or a gummed up ISV.
I am unsure what temp sender triggers the CSV on the 200 though. I think its one of the pin type coolant sensors near the drivers front of the cylinder head.
Erratic idle could be a vac leak, bad throttle/idle switch, or a gummed up ISV.
#4
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Check the CSV (cold start valve) this is another fuel injector at the back of the intake manifold, which is used to start a cold engine.
Its only purpose is to enrich the fuel mixture for a cold engine.
Its only purpose is to enrich the fuel mixture for a cold engine.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
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Idle Stabilization Valve. Its the small can looking dealie at the very back of the intake manifold and has an electrical plug on one end and some larger vac tubes going in and out of it.
#7
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I am interested!
How much and will it work on my 89 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo?
Thanks, man! =)
How much and will it work on my 89 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo?
Thanks, man! =)
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#8
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first, check to see if you are getting any power to the CSV as Audiqv8 described. When cold and during cranking, it should power up. Use a 12V bulb when you disconnnect the plug. I also put 12v (or use a 9v battery to trigger the valve to see if that is working, click click. I love manual control, so I hooked up a momentary button, a LED on the lower dash. Wire to the CSV and push when needed. I know there is a controller but I couldn't figure it out.I push the button when cranking. Heh, good theft deterant!
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