CV joints
#1
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OK i am going to install new joints on both sides today when my parts get here. I remmeber renting pullers and crap from checker but the mech that did my dads honda didnt even use them, he used some huge fork thing to pop off the joint and idk how he did the outer one. what do i need to do this job and is there anything i should be careful of? thanks guys
#2
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lots of leverage to loosen the axle nuts. If you are using a 1/2 breaker bar, make sure it is a Craftsman so you can take it to Sears and get another when you break the 1/2 lug. I use a 3/4 breaker bar and a 6 fot pipe.
Loose the axel nut with the wheels on the ground and tires blocked. (in the direction you are trying to loosen the nut) They are really tight. If you see the car moving forward, you aren't blocked good enough. Now you can jack it up, take off wheel etc.
Remove the bolts holding the control arm / ball joints. Get a really long bar and pry the arm down to pull the ball shafts out of the pinch connector. DO NOT SPREAD THE PINCH CONNECTOR APART, IT IS CAST IRON. You might even need to bang the control arm downward with a big hammer.
It really helps to have somene else leaning down on that long pry bar to bend the lower arm (with sway bar attached) so you can swing the strut out from the axle.
At this point, you shoold be able to see the ring of bolts holding the inner CV joint to the tranny. I think they are hex socket bolts, so be prepared before you start. Also, get new bolts / nuts for the ball joint pinch connector. It should be replaced every time you remove it.
When you put it back together, do the reverse with the pry bat and let the tapered ball shaft go up into pinch just until the bolt will slide in. Do not force it all the way up. If you do that, it won't pinch the ball joint shaft and the it will pop out when you go around a corner. There are some torque specs on how much to tighten the bolt/nut, but I would exceed that slightly, don't break them off though!
A good check is to put the pry bar back on top of the control arm afterwards and jump up and down on it. If the ball joint pops out, you don't have it in right or tight enough.
Loose the axel nut with the wheels on the ground and tires blocked. (in the direction you are trying to loosen the nut) They are really tight. If you see the car moving forward, you aren't blocked good enough. Now you can jack it up, take off wheel etc.
Remove the bolts holding the control arm / ball joints. Get a really long bar and pry the arm down to pull the ball shafts out of the pinch connector. DO NOT SPREAD THE PINCH CONNECTOR APART, IT IS CAST IRON. You might even need to bang the control arm downward with a big hammer.
It really helps to have somene else leaning down on that long pry bar to bend the lower arm (with sway bar attached) so you can swing the strut out from the axle.
At this point, you shoold be able to see the ring of bolts holding the inner CV joint to the tranny. I think they are hex socket bolts, so be prepared before you start. Also, get new bolts / nuts for the ball joint pinch connector. It should be replaced every time you remove it.
When you put it back together, do the reverse with the pry bat and let the tapered ball shaft go up into pinch just until the bolt will slide in. Do not force it all the way up. If you do that, it won't pinch the ball joint shaft and the it will pop out when you go around a corner. There are some torque specs on how much to tighten the bolt/nut, but I would exceed that slightly, don't break them off though!
A good check is to put the pry bar back on top of the control arm afterwards and jump up and down on it. If the ball joint pops out, you don't have it in right or tight enough.
#4
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i think they are like grade 8 or 9. the nuts are nylon locking nuts too and you shouldn't reuse them either. triple square is some kind of hardness rating i think
#5
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Triple square are 12 points, do not try to use a hex (6 points) or torx (6 points)you will only end up stripping them. Go to Autozone or PepBoys, they have the correct tool.
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04-12-2003 08:42 AM