cuatrokoop

If its pinging, it'll throw a flashing CEL because the ECU will pull back timing. If it pings and DOESN'T do so, then you've got something else.

Either way, ping or a faulty knock sensor will/should throw a code and flash the CEL. Have you pulled your codes yet?

2141
or
2143
First knock regulation
- 2141 = sensor 1
- 2143 = sensor 2
- Limited loss of power
- Insufficient top speed
- Engine running rough
- Engine knock/ping
- Fuel octane too low
- Re-torque knock sensor (7 ft lb / 10 Nm)
- Use recommended octane fuel
- Check compression and fuel injection system

2142
or
2144
Knock sensor
- 2142 = sensor 1
- 2144 = sensor 2
- High fuel consumption
- Impact-like power loss (like misfire)
- Fault in sensor wiring
- Knock sensor faulty
- Check wiring to knock sensors
- Re-torque knock sensor (7 ft lb / 10 Nm)
- Replace knock sensor

Granted, you only have 1 knock sensor, but the codes will be similar.

escargot

What are detonation symptoms? How does one know that it's detonating? (for my own knowlege). Thanks.

audiqv8

Check the link<ul><li><a href="http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm">Mr. Fixit</a></li></ul>

SteveJ_in_TX

Such as, did you fill up with premium at Cheap John's Gas Emporium? Or was it your usual vendor of premium fuels? Maybe you got a bad batch o'gas.

Or, is it possible your car is leaning out at high revs and high boost? That would influence pinging, and once upon a time somebody on the Q list had installed a new fuel pump and it was not giving adequate pressure at high boost. The fuel filter was the culprit as I recall.

Or, another suspect would be a clogged air filter (I know, I have to change mine too). Might be struggling to pass the air charge to the engine.

Just some stuff to check after you pull the codes...

Toxcheap

Those are decent plugs but a 7 is a little hot.
Did you check for plug damage, on seven heat range and some added boost the ceramic cracks fr4om the heat, once the ceramic is broken away from the plug it gets really hot and causes pinging.
Not to many other things cause the pinging you described. The 10 valve combustion chamber design and low compression ratio make it pretty hard to ping. I'm assuming you didn't remove your intercooler or change the ecu timing maps.
Let me know what you find.

Later
TOX

SteveAngry

Steve:

Filled up with 93 premium as usual. Gone through 2 1/4 tanks of it in the last 3 days. No change.

Hmmm. Unsure of my fuel filters current mileage. Might want to change that soon...

Air filter is a K&amp;N. It was cleaned out about a half year ago...

I pulled the codes and got 4444. Pulled the plugs also. Most were slightly ashy brown with no damage. One was slightly whitish but intact.

I'm going to change out the plugs for the heck of it. I also dumped a bucket full of Techron into the gastank to see if maybe I can clean up any carbon deposits...

I'm starting to think it's timing related. I'm down in power all across the range while still making full boost.

Who knows!? :P

Steve
Michigan

SteveAngry

Plugs looked decent. Four slightly ashy ones and one slightly white. No damage to any of the plugs...

I'm gonna switch over the NGK 3 electrode plugs tommorow.

No, I haven't messed with any ECU mapping lately

Steve
Michigan

SteveAngry

Did the old bang on the engine with a hammer and see if the sensor works trick.

Steve
Michigan

RussB

When you stand on the throttle, somehow your ignition timing should become more retarded than during light throttle running. If not, the engine will ping badly. (While cruising with small throttle openings, your engine returns better gas mileage if its spark is advanced.)

My older WU engine senses driver throttle demand the old-fashioned way via intake manifold vacuum. Its distributor has a vacuum diaphragm that accomplishes the spark retard action when the driver opens the throttle.

I gather that later I5 engines employ a throttle position sensor to sense driver throttle demand and retard the spark within the ECU. It sounds like your TPS or associated circuitry ain't working. I'd guess that either an ohmmeter can be used to test its operation with ignition off or a voltmeter can be used with engine running.

audiqv8

Did the timing changed recently? Grab the distributor and retard the timing a couple of degree and see if it helps.