Nuttynotty

Hi Guys
Still having issues with high idle and poor acceleration, even after all sensors replaced and turbo rebuild. the only thing remaining is the ECM, I cannot afford $900 for a Ebay replacement, does anyone know where I can get my ECM tested ????


Cheers


Link to all the hassle this German car have given me
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2821453

yodasfro

Just FYI going rate for a used one is $100-300. Lucky for you you're in CO
Steve Eiche seiche at shadetreesoftware.com is also in CO and the person to talk regarding 3B/AAN ECU repairs testing. But it shouldn't be too hard to find another person in CO with a 200 20v to try your ECU in their car either.

Nuttynotty

Hi guys. So it's not the ECM. After going through my notes the only sensor I have not replaced is the mass air flow sensor. And when disconnected when the engine is warm the rpm drops to 900 and she revs a little freer . So my question is what mass air flow sensor can I use in replacement of the 500 buck. Audi 200 qt air sensor. Can I use a Audi s4
Please help I'm at my wits end. And yes I have checked the air sensor with a dvm and it checks out per the manual but you can only chech it with the engine not running

yodasfro

Yes the urs4/s6 MAF is the same. I've seen python reconditioned units on ebay for under $200 pn# Python Injection 812-610

Nuttynotty

Cheers, I have spoken to Python, they will test my MAF and if faulty repair / remanufacture for $160 , a little better than $425

I have tested the MAF per the repair manual and it checks out OK, however then I disconnect the MAF sensor she does idle a little better, around 1K as opposed to 1300 when connected, She purrs when you first start her when cold, but as she warns up so go up the RPM and the hesitation when accelerating, I also noticed another symptom also, if I hold the gas pedal down so the RMP hits 3500, it will hit 3500 OK , but will drop to 2000 even without me moving the gas pedal, it all points to the MAF sensor. So I guess I'll find out this Friday when they call me and let me the know the test results.

Fingers crossed....

Nuttynotty

Hi Guy's

OK Python have checked out my MAF sensor and it checks out OK, no problems... So I am at a loss as to why my Audi when cold runs fine, but as soon as it go into open loop it all go to hell in a hand bag..

All sensors and ECM have been replaced for known working units. the wiring has also been checked and all is good with that. so why does my Audi have no power when warm and the idle increase when the temperature is above cold? When driving her cold she has power and drives well, but as she warms up and you pull away from the lights there is very little execration as if you are pulling away in 4th, but as soon as the RPM eventually hit 2500 she takes off …..

What controls the fuel on these cars ( injectors have been replaced) Fuel pressure never falls below 45PSI
1 Spark plugs replaced ( new) and they are the correct ones.
2/ TPS sensor replaced
3 ISV replaced for new
4 distributor replaced for rebuilt with correct rotor arm
5 plug wire replaced
6 temperature sensor replaced for new ( back of engine)
7 multi sensor replaced for new
8 Turbo rebuilt
9 All hoses replaced for silicon
10 Fuel pump and filters replaced
11 MAF checked out and found to be working correctly.

I’m at a loss….


Note, when the Audi is running ( warm and the RPM is around 1200) if the AC is put on the revs drop to around 1000, isn’t this the wrong way around ??? RPM should go up when the AC is on?

Kneale Brownson

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl.../20vthrot.html

Nuttynotty

Hi,

Been there and checked connection right to the ECM all checks out, even replaced the TPS just in case, have adjusted the TPS many times makes no difference.
Have gone through all of these test http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...ng/ecu20v.html
All check out correct, no problems found.
But still when at operating temperature, I have no power till RPM hits 2500. Idle fluctuates around 1100~1300 RPM.


ECM Code will sometimes flash 2121 but not all the time. That is the only code which has ever shown. TPS and ESV have both been replaced. The ATS sensor checks out correctly also. There are NO vacuum leaks anywhere. She runs fine when cold, only when hot does this problem occur. I have even poured cold water over all the sensor when the problem shows, but nothing changed ……

Nuttynotty

Ok I have found a new symptom which may help the grugrus out there, this only happens when the car is at operating temperature not when cold. If you slowly increase the RPM to 1500 and hold the throttle in the same position ( as to try and maintain the 1500 RPM ) the engines will start to rev i.e. RPM will drop to 1100 and them rise back to 1500 and drop to 1100 and back up to 1500. This will go on till you move the throttle, it sounds like you are blipping the throttle i.e. broom broom broom ……

Any ideas ???

Kneale Brownson

Have you tried a different engine control module just to see if that's not working correctly?