Lutz

car: Audi 1991 / 100

I am blowing fuse #4 since driving in the rain.

I disconnected radio/cigarette lighter/glove compartment light etc - still same thing

Connected low voltage test light across fuse holder #4 (at one point wiper was actuated) - when puling test light wire in and out towards fender headlights go on and off - when I leave the wire in the headlights stay on.

Any suggestion please..thanks

Bloodred86

Look at what the fuse is for, and track all the circuits.

rooster 2

controlling radio, cig lighter, clock, and interior lights. None of the above work. Suspect my problem is related to a bad ground, as the fuse is good in the fuse panel, but everything on the circuit is dead. How do I track all circuits? Where should I look for a bad ground? Thanks for any advise.

Lutz........circuit 4 on my car does not control the headlights, but maybe on your 100 model it does. Check your wiring up front around your headlights for any wiring insulation cuts or chaffing that could be causing the "short." Adding rain water has made your problem that much worse.

Lutz

I came across an article for testing re. a short to ground

link:http://groups.google.ca/group/alt.autos.toyota.camry/browse_thread/thread/5755d93d3b3752c0/4ce52e562584add1?lnk=st&q=blown+fuse+troublesh ooting+car&rnum=2&hl=en#4ce52e562584add1

Lutz

Found out that alarm/keyless entry is on #4 fuse as well. Now, this could mean that I could have a short/shaved/broken wire(s) in the door or the rubber boot or..etc. etc.

rooster 2

cut/pasting the link to go to net doesn't work either. Any other way to get there to view info?
Thanks, Larry

Lutz

link work fine for me....

I have a friend who owns a 93' Camry XLE. Today he went to deactivate
>the alarm and noticed it quit working along with the radio and
>interior lights. He noticed a burning smell inside the vehicle and
>found the Dome light fuse (20 Amp) was blown. Any suggestions on how
>to start troubleshooting this. I'm thinking possibly, the radio due to
>the burning smell unless it's coming from burnt harness wiring.


Yep...............remove the blown fuse.
determine which side contact on the fuse block is
"powered" and ignore it.

go to the battery and run a wire inside the car,
hook a test lamp up to the wire, and make contact
to the other side of the lamp, to the unpowered
side of the fuse holder in the fuse block.
the light will light up if there is a short to
ground. If it doesn't light up, then you have a
problem that's gonna be fun to find , because it's
what us trouble shooters call
intermittent..............that will not be an easy
repair at all.
if it does light up, you can now start the "easy"
part of the trobleshooting process by removing all
the components that are on the circuit for that
fuse, indicated in the owners
manual..........radio would be my first shot ,
especially if the friend in need has children.
Kids se mommy and daddy putting stuff in the radio
all the time,..............they should try it also
right?...............usually a bunch of coinage or
paperclips or something that's small enough to
shove through the opening for the tape ( or cd in
some cases).
After many many years of doing this kind of work,
that's where I start If I know nothing about the
owner of the car, but I also look for indicators
such as child Seats and small toys in the floor,
and believe it or not packages of baby wipes.All
of these are good indicators of that kind of
issue.
I might be aiming in the wrong direction , so Just
in case, we'll shoot in a different direction
also.
Now,..........Knowing that a lot of the
entry/alarm systems trigger the dome light, when
activated or de-activated, is a plus in this
particular case, as when your friend hit the
remote seems to be an indicator that something
went wrong either in the lighting portion of the
car, or in the "brain" for the system..........If
your test light set I described above is in use,
and you have a different set of paramaters than
the "kids theory" then you might start looking
into Bulbs and bulb
fixtures...............sometimes they do have
problems that occur and will cause similar
symptoms. ( of course once again , this is from my
experience and should not be considered any kind
of "Gospel" or anything )
Also might want to try and see if the
alarm/keyless brain is functioning while all the
other stuff is not, by pushing the buttons on the
remote and listening under the drivers side dash,
near the pedals, for faint clicking sounds.
If the clicking is heard, then the System is
likely still active, and some of the things that
are required for the system to fully comply are
out due to the blown fuse.


try some of this stuff out and let the group know
how it's going..................


hope this helps


When NOT gone,...... I can be reached. MUADIB


http://www.angelfire.com/retro/ssterile/MAIN%20PAGE.html




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MUADIB View profile
More options Dec 21 2002, 11:42 pm

Newsgroups: alt.autos.toyota.camry
From: MUADIB <SSTERRELL2...@ATTBI.COM>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 02:42:30 GMT
Local: Sat, Dec 21 2002 11:42 pm
Subject: Re: Blown fuse- lengthy response...............
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Sorry, Need to add something ...........

If you have a bulb lit on your test light, once
you remove the "problem, the light will go out,
indicating you've found the
culprit...............Sorry, I read my post after
it showed up on the gourp and realized I'd
forgotten ot make the part of the troubleshooting.

rooster 2

Thanks Lutz for info on the link, I will follow the advise

Lutz

fuse #4 also supplies 12V to keyless entry/alarm - relay(s) shortened out replaced them and all is fine