Forest

Ok, just installed new Euros in the car (89200Q), and used BLAUfergnugen's wiring harness (thank goodness, I would never have figured this thing out myself!) - Headlights work fine, both high and low beam (that is the H4 bulb on the outside), and in high beam the "daytime driving" light comes on too (the H3 on the inside)...so all the bulbs work okay...

But when I just switch on the daytime driving lights (first notch on the switch), I get nothing?! Any ideas?

Type44Q

...and I'm almost positive the previous owner said there was a Blau harness under there... if you find a remedy, let me know!

cuatrokoop

Sounds like a relay isn't wired properly...

SteveAngry

I called Blau for info and no one there could help...

Suprise!

If you figure it out LMK too...

Steve
Michigan

5kcstq

Um, the first notch on the headlight switch is the parking lights. On your DOT lights, these are the orange corners. On your eurolights, there are no parking lights. When your turn on your parking lights, your dashlights and taillights should come on, and that's it (except for your underhood light when it is open). If you want parking lights, you will have to add something.

Your H3 lights are high beams, and come on with the high beam filament in your H4 lights.

Hope that helps. Congrats on the euros, they are awesome, aren't they? :-)

Forest

Just took them out for a winter drive this evening....WOW - I was swiming in light, they are so cool. I was at the drive-thru and the reflection of the highbeams from windows across the street was blinding me - now I know why people were flashing their lights at me when I was running with the highbeam on! For the last year I have been running with my "highbeams" on all the time and no one EVER flashed me!

I spoke with the guy who sold me the euros and came to the same conclussion re: daytime driving lights. I guess the confusion comes from the original centre light location was a "daytime driving" light, where now it is occupied by the H3, which they call a "driving" light - that is where I was getting confused - "daytime driving" vs. "driving" light.

So, what is the point of those H3's, it is a shallower reflecter than the main light, so I doubt the project as far...it is just to add more lux's across the roadway?

SteveAngry

is with my H4 "aero" euros. I cannot get the city light or parking lights to work even thiugh everything is wired as suggested...

Any ideas?
Steve
Michigan

5kcstq

Oh yeah, the center lights do light up in addition to the orange corners. It's all coming back to me now. :-)

I would still call them parking lights. They function as parking lights do, with a switch. "Daytime driving/running lights" typically are on whenever the key is on, and cannot be switched off. I'm not a big fan of them personally. They came into effect long after these old Type 44's were designed.

Yeah, driving lights are just to light up the whole road when noone else is around. Since there is no beam cutoff for the other drivers, it shouldn't be used anytime the high beams shouldn't be used.

I never thought of it as being different than the high beams, but I guess it sort of is different.

Anyone know how the european Type 44's are wired? Are the H3's switched separately from the high beams?

I would think a shallower reflector would project further, but I don't know what all is involved.

Be sure to Stongard those before they get a bullseye from a stone! I had to replace the lens on one of mine because I put them in before I Stongarded them.

cuatrokoop

I've heard of StoneGuard type products causing heat related cracks on E-Code headlamps. The E-codes put off more heat than any DOT lamp, for sure. I can melt 3" of snow with my lows and highs in short order with the RS2's. The old DOT's could never melt snow.

Just some food for thought...

5kcstq

What are your e-code bulb wattages? I would think the lens cracking would be more a function of wattage than the type of lamp.

This also might be more of an issue where it is cold outside. I've had mine for a while on my 5kcstq, and haven't had an issue. I don't recall what wattages I'm running.

I'm thinking of converting one of my e-code running cars over to HID dual H4's, like those new ones from Catz. This would reduce the heat generated from the incandescents now.