Final Drive Fluid....???
05-02-2003, 05:15 PM
#1
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Final Drive Fluid....???
I want to replace or at least renew part of the fluid in the final drive of my Audi 100. The car is equipped with AutoTranny.
First, on which side is the drain plug? I can't see IT. Driver's or Passanger's side?
What is it close to and what does it look like? Please describe.
Once i find it and remove it, how do i measure the current level of my old fluid? What's the normal level?
Any tips for replacement and refilling?
What kind/type of fluid should i buy?
I know that these are a lot of questions but this is my first time doing this type of service. I want to do it right.
I just replaced my tranny fluid, i put some Lucas "tranny fix" too and test drove the car. Shifts smooth but i think i overfilled it a little because there is some fluid around the "vent caps".
Thanks for any advice!
First, on which side is the drain plug? I can't see IT. Driver's or Passanger's side?
What is it close to and what does it look like? Please describe.
Once i find it and remove it, how do i measure the current level of my old fluid? What's the normal level?
Any tips for replacement and refilling?
What kind/type of fluid should i buy?
I know that these are a lot of questions but this is my first time doing this type of service. I want to do it right.
I just replaced my tranny fluid, i put some Lucas "tranny fix" too and test drove the car. Shifts smooth but i think i overfilled it a little because there is some fluid around the "vent caps".
Thanks for any advice!
05-02-2003, 07:09 PM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Re: Final Drive Fluid....??? here's how
I've owned a few Audis and the final drive ahead of the tranny configuration creates a seal problem. Essentially, engine torque is transmitted via a shaft that goes through the differential and into the tranny. The tranny then does it's thing and turns the torque back around into the differential via a hollow shaft that is outside the first one.
This is a tricky thing to seal and eventually, 90 wt. gear oil gets into the tranny, making it smell but not hurting it significantly. Tranny fluid however is thinner than 90 wt oil and it leaks the other way and dilutes the differential lubricant. This can cause a problem and wear out the bearings. Once they start to grind, it's too late.
To prevent this, an ever-other year fluid change is a good idea. Here's how:
On the left (driver's side) of the differential, there is a 15mm hex head plug. You can't see it because it is over the tranny mount. The mount has to be taken off, along with the cables connected to it. Once it is out of the way, you can see the hex plug.
A hex drive; either a big 15mm "L" hex wrench or a rachet drive hex socket it needed. There is no drain on the differential. The hole on the side is the only access.
Since the fuild is diluted with thinner oil, it must be taken out and the only way is to suck it out. (No, not with a siphon). Use one of those little pumps that chuck into your drill. Buy it at Home Depot or someplace like that. Put the flexible intake tube into the differential and start sucking.
Do not try this after your car has been sitting in sub zero weather. That would be like trying to suck molases. Drive the car for a while and warm it up.
The job works best if you have three hands. Hold the tube angling down towards the bottom of the diff, hold and trigger the drill, lastly, aim the discharge hose into a jug or something to catch the old oil. Consider yourself lucky if you don't get a face full of dirty 90 wt.
Filling it up is almost as much fun. Audi recommends the synthetic stuff, so spend a couple more bucks and get it. 90 wt generally comes in a squeeze bottle with a nozzle. It's possible to fill it by holding the bottle up in there and squeeze it in.
A better way is to use your drill pump. You can't just turn the drill on reverse. They don't work that way. Turn it around and put the discharge hose in the diff and the intake in the new bottle of 90 wt. Run some through first to clean out the pump.
How do you know when it is full? When it overflows on your face. As soon as you feel it running down your arm, put the plug back in. This is much better cause the new oil tastes much better than the dirty old stuff.
This is a tricky thing to seal and eventually, 90 wt. gear oil gets into the tranny, making it smell but not hurting it significantly. Tranny fluid however is thinner than 90 wt oil and it leaks the other way and dilutes the differential lubricant. This can cause a problem and wear out the bearings. Once they start to grind, it's too late.
To prevent this, an ever-other year fluid change is a good idea. Here's how:
On the left (driver's side) of the differential, there is a 15mm hex head plug. You can't see it because it is over the tranny mount. The mount has to be taken off, along with the cables connected to it. Once it is out of the way, you can see the hex plug.
A hex drive; either a big 15mm "L" hex wrench or a rachet drive hex socket it needed. There is no drain on the differential. The hole on the side is the only access.
Since the fuild is diluted with thinner oil, it must be taken out and the only way is to suck it out. (No, not with a siphon). Use one of those little pumps that chuck into your drill. Buy it at Home Depot or someplace like that. Put the flexible intake tube into the differential and start sucking.
Do not try this after your car has been sitting in sub zero weather. That would be like trying to suck molases. Drive the car for a while and warm it up.
The job works best if you have three hands. Hold the tube angling down towards the bottom of the diff, hold and trigger the drill, lastly, aim the discharge hose into a jug or something to catch the old oil. Consider yourself lucky if you don't get a face full of dirty 90 wt.
Filling it up is almost as much fun. Audi recommends the synthetic stuff, so spend a couple more bucks and get it. 90 wt generally comes in a squeeze bottle with a nozzle. It's possible to fill it by holding the bottle up in there and squeeze it in.
A better way is to use your drill pump. You can't just turn the drill on reverse. They don't work that way. Turn it around and put the discharge hose in the diff and the intake in the new bottle of 90 wt. Run some through first to clean out the pump.
How do you know when it is full? When it overflows on your face. As soon as you feel it running down your arm, put the plug back in. This is much better cause the new oil tastes much better than the dirty old stuff.
05-04-2003, 02:51 AM
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Re: How did Lucas work for you?
Hi Wilson,
Well, i drove the car only once or twice since i put the fresh AT fluid + Lucas. AT shifts better i think. As for my reverse gear....i tested it a few times and it slipped only once for a second or two. I tried again, it was OK. However, the real test would be when i try to back up the car going uphill or when there is more weight on the tranny.
Then i'll know if the problem was fixed. I'll try that very soon and i'll update you, hopefully with some good news. I think that for now, the AT seals may need to "soak" better in the new fluid/Lucas mix before any miracles can happen.
I can't wait to replace my Final Drive fluid too ... i'll try to do it next weekend. Fun fun!
Well, i drove the car only once or twice since i put the fresh AT fluid + Lucas. AT shifts better i think. As for my reverse gear....i tested it a few times and it slipped only once for a second or two. I tried again, it was OK. However, the real test would be when i try to back up the car going uphill or when there is more weight on the tranny.
Then i'll know if the problem was fixed. I'll try that very soon and i'll update you, hopefully with some good news. I think that for now, the AT seals may need to "soak" better in the new fluid/Lucas mix before any miracles can happen.
I can't wait to replace my Final Drive fluid too ... i'll try to do it next weekend. Fun fun!
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