fuel lines
08-24-2009, 04:54 AM
#4
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Any dealer should be able to get you the lines. Over $200 from discount dealers for the set of pipes running under the car plus the shipping--they're about seven feet long. The one time I purchased fuel lines from a dealer, they came bent double in the middle for packaging and had to be spliced when straightened back out. Useless.
I use the more-easily formed(and more rust resistant) copper/nickel stuff from FedHill --http://www.fedhillusa.com/-- for both brake and fuel line fabrication now. A tubing bender lets you come fairly close to OEM and you'll never have to do it again.
Just a note, your fuel lines are in multiple sections. The parts under the car that fail from corrision are connected to other pipe sections going up into the engine bay by threaded couplings just up from where they turn up at the front. The rear connections (both threaded and just hose-clamped together) are above the tray that's mounted below the passenger side at the rear.
I use the more-easily formed(and more rust resistant) copper/nickel stuff from FedHill --http://www.fedhillusa.com/-- for both brake and fuel line fabrication now. A tubing bender lets you come fairly close to OEM and you'll never have to do it again.
Just a note, your fuel lines are in multiple sections. The parts under the car that fail from corrision are connected to other pipe sections going up into the engine bay by threaded couplings just up from where they turn up at the front. The rear connections (both threaded and just hose-clamped together) are above the tray that's mounted below the passenger side at the rear.
08-24-2009, 03:34 PM
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Any dealer should be able to get you the lines. Over $200 from discount dealers for the set of pipes running under the car plus the shipping--they're about seven feet long. The one time I purchased fuel lines from a dealer, they came bent double in the middle for packaging and had to be spliced when straightened back out. Useless.
I use the more-easily formed(and more rust resistant) copper/nickel stuff from FedHill --http://www.fedhillusa.com/-- for both brake and fuel line fabrication now. A tubing bender lets you come fairly close to OEM and you'll never have to do it again.
Just a note, your fuel lines are in multiple sections. The parts under the car that fail from corrision are connected to other pipe sections going up into the engine bay by threaded couplings just up from where they turn up at the front. The rear connections (both threaded and just hose-clamped together) are above the tray that's mounted below the passenger side at the rear.
I use the more-easily formed(and more rust resistant) copper/nickel stuff from FedHill --http://www.fedhillusa.com/-- for both brake and fuel line fabrication now. A tubing bender lets you come fairly close to OEM and you'll never have to do it again.
Just a note, your fuel lines are in multiple sections. The parts under the car that fail from corrision are connected to other pipe sections going up into the engine bay by threaded couplings just up from where they turn up at the front. The rear connections (both threaded and just hose-clamped together) are above the tray that's mounted below the passenger side at the rear.
08-24-2009, 05:12 PM
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They're 8 mm, close to 5/16". The ones off either end usually do not corrode enough to start leaking.
The 24-ft. coil of 8mm from FedHill will give you three lines.
The 24-ft. coil of 8mm from FedHill will give you three lines.
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08-25-2009, 03:42 AM
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I just want to make sure you are positive about the size because one of them looked smaller or bigger than the other 2. but i cant remember exactly.
08-25-2009, 03:43 AM
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08-25-2009, 04:36 AM
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I've always been able to salvage the OEM fittings when disassembling the connections. That way, I just put a new bubble on the new pipe and reassemble. FedHill sells connectors, but a good FLAPS should have metric ones too.