hawist

has anyone tryed to replace wire from selinoid to starter moter?

itsav8

Yup..cut it back off the starter till you get good fresh metal & crimp in connector & a fresh piece of wire & shrink wrap it.

Kneale Brownson

I think all Audi starter wiring is subject to wire corrosion/failure because the crappy insulation used on that wire doesn't protect it from invasion by moisture or something. Here's the wires on my wife's 4kq before I spliced in new stuff.

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/43663744.jpg">

I had to go to near the battery box, which is in the engine compartment on the 4kqs. I've heard of folks having to go all the way to the fusebox. On my two 200q20vs, I had to splice in about two feet of new wire to get to good OEM wire.

RussB

<center><img src="http://img.alibaba.com/photo/10378638/Texturized_Fiberglass_Fabric.summ.jpg"></center><p>
High temperatures cook the untinned copper strands, which develop oxide on their surfaces, and slowly converts the entire conductor to (high resistance) copper oxide. In fact, (at temperatures we're interested in) copper oxide is closer to an insulator than a conductor. As the copper (Cu) is converted to copper oxide (CuO), the wire's resistance increases, so the current that passes through the wire heats it due to (I^2)*R, hastening complete failure. Death of the oxided portion is inevitable.

Just one more reason to carefully seal all your electrical conductors and splices. No oxygen: no oxidation. Use heat shrink tubing at splices and terminals to protect the copper strands from the (oxygen - rich) air.

Step one toward a cure is to use stranded wire in which each strand has been plated with a metal that oxidizes at higher temperatures than copper.

I like Marine Type 3 wire: more, finer, strands. Each strand is individually electrotinned to withstand higher temperatures, and insulation is rated for higher temp. Wire from Autozone et al is junk and inadequate for this service.

(An aside: Oddly, copper oxide, CuO, displays interesting superconducting properties at very VERY cold temperatures. For our purposes it's an insulator.)

To gild the lilly, pull silicone / fiberglas heat resistant tubing over the Marine Type 3 wire at the starter end. I buy mine in small quantities from Ward's Marine Electric. You may also find it at aircraft suppliers such as Aircraft Spruce &amp; Specialty Company, or good quality racecar equipment suppliers. Standard consumer stores won't carry it.<ul><li><a href="http://www.suflex.com/datasheets/siliconerubber.pdf">http://www.suflex.com/datasheets/siliconerubber.pdf</a</li></ul>

hawist

how do i connect the wire to the conducter inside the starter ? if i use solder what kind? and how do i keep from melting the plastic parts and other connections ? iknow iknow heat sink but there is not that much space ? so ill take it all apart . How does the shaft com out of the bushing or baering on the houseing

itsav8

Pull the wire connector off the selinoid. The wire should pass through a Red or Black sheeth, follow it along the front support..(there should be wire ties along the front support) but check the wire every 1/2 foot or so till you find clean metal. Use a but connector &amp; crimp together(I used a small piece of bike innertoob &amp; wraped it around &amp; heated it up till it shrunk around the but connector,
***be advised that it's going to smell***
Get the proper water tight Female connector for the silinoid Male tab..crimp the water tight Femal connector onto the wire. If you don't have the Red or Black sheeth again use a piece of bike innertoob &amp; use electric tape a a few zipties on both ends to ensure the Electric tape over time doesn't start to undo it'self.
Connect connector to silinoid zip tie back in place &amp; be done with it.