Help with Audi 5000 CS needed! Suggestions appreciated!
12-02-2008, 02:23 PM
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Help with Audi 5000 CS needed! Suggestions appreciated!
More troubles with my '86 5000 CS quattro turbo!
>Blower Motor: Kind of works sometimes, even on high it is not very fast. I would guess the motor, but could it be the resistor circuit or controller??? Is the blower form a 100 the same as the 5000?
>I need to replace my drivers front axle. There is a Audi 100 non quattro (1989?) that has an almost NEW pair of from axles sitting in the local junkyard. Are they interchangeable between 5000 quarttro and 100 non quattro?
>The rear lower control arm bushings are SHOT, therefore I can not have the car aligned. Is this a dealer only item? How bad it it to replace? It is easier to change the arm out with a salvage yard arm?
Thanks!
>Blower Motor: Kind of works sometimes, even on high it is not very fast. I would guess the motor, but could it be the resistor circuit or controller??? Is the blower form a 100 the same as the 5000?
>I need to replace my drivers front axle. There is a Audi 100 non quattro (1989?) that has an almost NEW pair of from axles sitting in the local junkyard. Are they interchangeable between 5000 quarttro and 100 non quattro?
>The rear lower control arm bushings are SHOT, therefore I can not have the car aligned. Is this a dealer only item? How bad it it to replace? It is easier to change the arm out with a salvage yard arm?
Thanks!
12-02-2008, 05:24 PM
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You want suggestions, eh? <heh heh> okay......
1. Blower motor - the automatic climate control system in a Type 44 is a pretty complex animal - you would be best to check over the system with a Bentley shop manual in hand. It is possible that the blower is not getting enough voltage, or the ground is bad, or the vacuum operated flaps are in the wrong position, or....
for motor replacement, it could possibly cross over to a 100 - I assume that you're eyeing the one in the wrecking yard - but you'd be well advised to troubleshoot your system completely than to go through the major hassle of r&r'ing the motor to find out that wasn't the problem....or the one on the 100 is more worn out than the one you've already got.
2. Check the parts listings at Worldpac - if the axles are listed together then they're _probably_ compatable. The "new" axles on the 100 are possibly rebuilds, in which case if your existing axle is original and the boot is torn then you might consider just replacing the boot.
3. Control arms are not too hard to replace - you should do an alignment after replacing them (and when you do an alignment your control arm adjusters will be siezed so you should replace them too......etc. etc.) Make sure that the correct bolt is used for binding the lower ball joint into the strut - if it's not properly shouldered the strut could come loose (usually at the most inopportune moment). The "salvage yard arm" is a bad idea - even if it were new, chances are you'd have to use a pickle fork to get it out of the strut, causing damage to the dust boot and possibly the ball joint itself.
If you're going to do an alignment, I'd do all the wear items in the corners: lower control arm, tie rod, strut bearing, strut mount, maybe even the wheel bearing if you find any play by pulling on the wheels. Alignments are a pain in the **** IME, because most shops have no idea how to actually do the work correctly, give the work to the lowest monkey lad in the shop and they will invariably charge you bigtime to either free up the adjusters or get new ones.
Cheers!
for motor replacement, it could possibly cross over to a 100 - I assume that you're eyeing the one in the wrecking yard - but you'd be well advised to troubleshoot your system completely than to go through the major hassle of r&r'ing the motor to find out that wasn't the problem....or the one on the 100 is more worn out than the one you've already got.
2. Check the parts listings at Worldpac - if the axles are listed together then they're _probably_ compatable. The "new" axles on the 100 are possibly rebuilds, in which case if your existing axle is original and the boot is torn then you might consider just replacing the boot.
3. Control arms are not too hard to replace - you should do an alignment after replacing them (and when you do an alignment your control arm adjusters will be siezed so you should replace them too......etc. etc.) Make sure that the correct bolt is used for binding the lower ball joint into the strut - if it's not properly shouldered the strut could come loose (usually at the most inopportune moment). The "salvage yard arm" is a bad idea - even if it were new, chances are you'd have to use a pickle fork to get it out of the strut, causing damage to the dust boot and possibly the ball joint itself.
If you're going to do an alignment, I'd do all the wear items in the corners: lower control arm, tie rod, strut bearing, strut mount, maybe even the wheel bearing if you find any play by pulling on the wheels. Alignments are a pain in the **** IME, because most shops have no idea how to actually do the work correctly, give the work to the lowest monkey lad in the shop and they will invariably charge you bigtime to either free up the adjusters or get new ones.
Cheers!
12-02-2008, 09:05 PM
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Re: You want suggestions, eh? <heh heh> okay......
Uh Oh. That subject title does not sound good!
OK, so I only have a Haynes manual. Not going to do much good it seems. I need to get my hand on one... Yea, I am eyeing the bone yard one, but I now remember what a hassle it is removing the motor in the 5000 (EASY on my old Mercedes!)
Where can I find a replacement boot for the axle? The boot only tore out in the last week, and it is a small tear right now.
OK, so I only have a Haynes manual. Not going to do much good it seems. I need to get my hand on one... Yea, I am eyeing the bone yard one, but I now remember what a hassle it is removing the motor in the 5000 (EASY on my old Mercedes!)
Where can I find a replacement boot for the axle? The boot only tore out in the last week, and it is a small tear right now.
12-03-2008, 05:30 AM
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Haynes "Book of Jokes"
From the Audifans List (and hanging on my cubicle wall):
Haynes Manual Translations
Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with visegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer counterclockwise.
Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles!
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell, bucko!
Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start; now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox...
Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...
Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a BIG can of WD40...
Haynes: Retain small spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly took my eye out!"
Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: "OK - that's the glass part off, now use some good pliers to dig out the base...
Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing...
Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!
Haynes: One spanner rating.
Translation: Your mother could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?
Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, little number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground.
Haynes: Three spanner rating.
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride in it afterwards!
Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search in the dark corner of the garage for while muttering "Piece of Sh at t" repeatedly under your breath.
Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife, "Yep, as I thought, it's broke!"
Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself.
Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.
Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark pugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.
Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.
Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...
Haynes: Using a suitable drift...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!
Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book but the thing you want to do!
Dave
1987 Coupe GT Special Build 2.3
All in SE VA
Cheers!
Haynes Manual Translations
Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with visegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer counterclockwise.
Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles!
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell, bucko!
Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start; now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox...
Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...
Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a BIG can of WD40...
Haynes: Retain small spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly took my eye out!"
Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: "OK - that's the glass part off, now use some good pliers to dig out the base...
Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing...
Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!
Haynes: One spanner rating.
Translation: Your mother could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?
Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, little number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground.
Haynes: Three spanner rating.
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride in it afterwards!
Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search in the dark corner of the garage for while muttering "Piece of Sh at t" repeatedly under your breath.
Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife, "Yep, as I thought, it's broke!"
Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself.
Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.
Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark pugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.
Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.
Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...
Haynes: Using a suitable drift...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!
Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book but the thing you want to do!
Dave
1987 Coupe GT Special Build 2.3
All in SE VA
Cheers!
12-03-2008, 05:45 AM
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Junkyard parts have value....
....just not "wear items" such as control arms, etc. In many cases you'll find a Type 44 that somebody lavished alot of money on before the proverbial straw broke the camel's back and the car ended up in the "yard of doom". In those cases, it's always good to be on a first name basis with the guy at the counter (a relationship developed through regular lunch-hour strolls through the twisted metal). I've got some sweet deals on nearly new parts from those - like a set of front Boge Turbogas (one in the box) for $15 each, Thule roofracks complete with bike trays for $10, etc. etc.
As for the boot, I'm sure that you could find a Worldpac distributor that could help you out (I think SJMautotechnik.com is...and I know Martin a/k/a auditurboquattro is one too....)<ul><li><a href="http://www.altrom.com/partdetails.jsp?id=965">CV Boot Kit on Altrom</a></li></ul>
As for the boot, I'm sure that you could find a Worldpac distributor that could help you out (I think SJMautotechnik.com is...and I know Martin a/k/a auditurboquattro is one too....)<ul><li><a href="http://www.altrom.com/partdetails.jsp?id=965">CV Boot Kit on Altrom</a></li></ul>
12-03-2008, 05:54 AM
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LMFAO!!! I have the haynes book too, I bought it before I found my bentley
I can def relate to that.... esp:
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell, bucko!
Haynes: Retain small spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly took my eye out!"
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark pugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.
Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell, bucko!
Haynes: Retain small spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly took my eye out!"
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark pugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.
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12-03-2008, 06:19 AM
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More....
<center><img src="http://www.youthblog.org/teen%20haynes%20man.jpg"></center><p>
Posted to the q-list in 2003 by Alan Pritchard....but I can't find it there. Found on a web search (http://www.messybeast.com/dragonqueen/real-haynes.htm):
THE CONDENSED HAYNES MANUAL
All makes and models post-2000
For a modern car chock full of electronics, all that's in the Haynes Manual (aka "The Haynes Bumper Book of Jokes") is:
Routine Service: Take it to a main dealer and hand over a large amount of cash.
Advanced Service: Open the bonnet. Decide all that stuff is far too scary. Proceed with routine service (see above).
HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing (fender).
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.
PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
Cheers!
Posted to the q-list in 2003 by Alan Pritchard....but I can't find it there. Found on a web search (http://www.messybeast.com/dragonqueen/real-haynes.htm):
THE CONDENSED HAYNES MANUAL
All makes and models post-2000
For a modern car chock full of electronics, all that's in the Haynes Manual (aka "The Haynes Bumper Book of Jokes") is:
Routine Service: Take it to a main dealer and hand over a large amount of cash.
Advanced Service: Open the bonnet. Decide all that stuff is far too scary. Proceed with routine service (see above).
HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing (fender).
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.
PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
Cheers!
12-03-2008, 09:17 AM
#10
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Re: Help with Audi 5000 CS needed! Suggestions appreciated!
BLOWER ISSUE JUST UNPLUG THE TWO WIRE PLUG ON DRIVERS SIDE END UNDER BLACK PLASTIC COWL PANEL HOOK TWO WIRES TIO IT AND SEE IF IT RUNS FASTER , IF ITS THE SAME ITS TIME FOR A NEW ONE. YES ITS THE SAME AS A 100 UP TO 91 BUT ITS A LO OF WORK TO PUT A USED ONE IN AND HAVE IT FAIL IN 3 MONTHS
AXLES PROBABLY ARE NOT THE SAME, 5000 AXLES HAVE NUT ON OUTSIDE END MOST 100 AXLES HAVE BOLT THROUGH HUB AND WILL NOT INTERCHANGE ALSO I THINK ABS RING IS DIFFERENT BETWEEN THEM
REAR ARM BUSHINGS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH AFTERMARKET MOST ARE BAD SO ID GO FOR NEW , YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAKE ARM TO SHOP AND HAVE BUSHING INSTALLED IF YOU DONT HAVE PRESS, ALSO BE SURE TO CHECK UPPER LINK ON REAR SUSPENSION ,THE ONE THAT ADJUSTS, WITH TIRE OFF GROUND GRAB TIRE AND TRY TO FORCE TOP IN AND BOTTOM OUT , IF IT MOVE YOU NEED NEW ONES MOST ARE BAD AT 100K.
IF YOU YOU NEED MORE INFO ON BLOWER JUST EMAIL ME
AXLES PROBABLY ARE NOT THE SAME, 5000 AXLES HAVE NUT ON OUTSIDE END MOST 100 AXLES HAVE BOLT THROUGH HUB AND WILL NOT INTERCHANGE ALSO I THINK ABS RING IS DIFFERENT BETWEEN THEM
REAR ARM BUSHINGS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH AFTERMARKET MOST ARE BAD SO ID GO FOR NEW , YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAKE ARM TO SHOP AND HAVE BUSHING INSTALLED IF YOU DONT HAVE PRESS, ALSO BE SURE TO CHECK UPPER LINK ON REAR SUSPENSION ,THE ONE THAT ADJUSTS, WITH TIRE OFF GROUND GRAB TIRE AND TRY TO FORCE TOP IN AND BOTTOM OUT , IF IT MOVE YOU NEED NEW ONES MOST ARE BAD AT 100K.
IF YOU YOU NEED MORE INFO ON BLOWER JUST EMAIL ME