how to check fuel acumulator?
12-07-2005, 03:50 AM
#1
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how to check fuel acumulator?
how to check fuel acumulator is it good or bad?
They are 2? one on fuel pump another near fuel distributor?Or no?
Is is possible to buy used but good fuel acumulator?
And how to know which one is bad?on fuel pump or near fuel distributor...?
I still have hard starting problem (always takes to start about 2-2.5sec)
After using the car for 2 years only 2or3times started immediatly as it should.
((
I`m tired for that hard starting...
What i changed:
spark plugs & wires new
fuel injectors new
csv (used)
fuel pump (with check valve)
mm hose new
temperature sensors...
and i don`t know how to fix that f@#%$ problem
A200T 87` FWD MC1
They are 2? one on fuel pump another near fuel distributor?Or no?
Is is possible to buy used but good fuel acumulator?
And how to know which one is bad?on fuel pump or near fuel distributor...?
I still have hard starting problem (always takes to start about 2-2.5sec)
After using the car for 2 years only 2or3times started immediatly as it should.
((I`m tired for that hard starting...
What i changed:
spark plugs & wires new
fuel injectors new
csv (used)
fuel pump (with check valve)
mm hose new
temperature sensors...
and i don`t know how to fix that f@#%$ problem
A200T 87` FWD MC1
12-07-2005, 04:48 AM
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Just one fuel accumulator
It's located beneath the car, rightside, just in front of the right rear wheel.
If your car's fuel accumulator has never been changed, it's probably failed.
Typical failure symptom is long crank time before starting when the engine's warm and has been off for 20 to 30 minutes. This is true for all CIS equipped cars: Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, et al. I don't know of any other test procedure other than the obvious one: place a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line, run the engine, shut off engine and observe residual fuel pressure with engine off.
A new accumulator will also help acceleration, as it prevents fuel pressure from dropping when fuel flow increases quicker than the fuel pump can accomodate immediately.
If your car's fuel accumulator has never been changed, it's probably failed.
Typical failure symptom is long crank time before starting when the engine's warm and has been off for 20 to 30 minutes. This is true for all CIS equipped cars: Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, et al. I don't know of any other test procedure other than the obvious one: place a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line, run the engine, shut off engine and observe residual fuel pressure with engine off.
A new accumulator will also help acceleration, as it prevents fuel pressure from dropping when fuel flow increases quicker than the fuel pump can accomodate immediately.
12-07-2005, 08:40 AM
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one quick test
if the car is warm and has sat for 1/2- 4 hour and you think the FA is not holding its pressure. >> try this , stick a fuse* in the top of the Fuel Pump Relay and leave it there . Now when you go to start the car next time
> turn the key , but not to the starter position
> you should hear the fuel pump start ... let it run for 10-15 seconds then try starting.
> if it doesn''t start right away it's your FA
* you would normaly do this to pull codes or do output tests
> turn the key , but not to the starter position
> you should hear the fuel pump start ... let it run for 10-15 seconds then try starting.
> if it doesn''t start right away it's your FA
* you would normaly do this to pull codes or do output tests
12-07-2005, 09:57 AM
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Re: how to check fuel acumulator?
1.Bridge fuel pump relay to make pump run.
2.Check air flow sensor plate height adjustment.3
3.Only one accumulator under car,if it is bad it leaks out to ground.
4.Check all vaccum hoses. Set CO/duty cycle to 40 degrees dwell angle(90 degree scale).
2.Check air flow sensor plate height adjustment.3
3.Only one accumulator under car,if it is bad it leaks out to ground.
4.Check all vaccum hoses. Set CO/duty cycle to 40 degrees dwell angle(90 degree scale).
12-08-2005, 02:58 AM
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Changing the fuel accumulator is easy
I just changed the fuel accumulator in my 88 5000CSTQ. It's easy:
o Place the rear of the car on jackstands.
o If the car is a quattro, remove the skid plate (four 13 mm head bolts)
o Wear a pair of goggles to protect your eyes from the gasoline spray when you open the fuel lines. Place a can beneath to catch the gasoline (< 1 liter) that remains in the lines. It'll stop pouring out in a minute or two once the lines empty.
o Spray plenty of penetrating oil on the two nuts that fasten the fuel lines to the accumulator and on the 10 mm bolt / clamp that fastens it to the bracket.
o Loosen the 17 and 19 mm fuel line nuts first before you loosen the clamp.
Tools needed:
o 17 and 19 mm open end wrenches
o 10 mm socket (to remove the clamp that fastens the accumulator to the bracket)
Once you remove the old one, you'll find that it has a black rubber ring around it. (It provides vibration isolation.) Remove this rubber ring and place it around the new fuel accumulator before installing it.
Note: The clamp and its bolt may be rusted. Use plenty of penetrating oil on it before trying to remove it. I applied anti-sieze lubricant to it before reinstalling it.
I'm very pleased with the results: not only does the car start quickly now when warm, but in general it runs smoother, especially when accelerating.
o Place the rear of the car on jackstands.
o If the car is a quattro, remove the skid plate (four 13 mm head bolts)
o Wear a pair of goggles to protect your eyes from the gasoline spray when you open the fuel lines. Place a can beneath to catch the gasoline (< 1 liter) that remains in the lines. It'll stop pouring out in a minute or two once the lines empty.
o Spray plenty of penetrating oil on the two nuts that fasten the fuel lines to the accumulator and on the 10 mm bolt / clamp that fastens it to the bracket.
o Loosen the 17 and 19 mm fuel line nuts first before you loosen the clamp.
Tools needed:
o 17 and 19 mm open end wrenches
o 10 mm socket (to remove the clamp that fastens the accumulator to the bracket)
Once you remove the old one, you'll find that it has a black rubber ring around it. (It provides vibration isolation.) Remove this rubber ring and place it around the new fuel accumulator before installing it.
Note: The clamp and its bolt may be rusted. Use plenty of penetrating oil on it before trying to remove it. I applied anti-sieze lubricant to it before reinstalling it.
I'm very pleased with the results: not only does the car start quickly now when warm, but in general it runs smoother, especially when accelerating.
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12-08-2005, 03:19 AM
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thanks for explanation how to change.What part number of FA?
at first i will try used FA..(faster,cheaper,easier to get etc...)so i want to know what part number too look for ...
I think that FA are the same for turbo and NA engines?
mayby on weekend i will try to change FA if i find used...
A200T MC1 87`
I think that FA are the same for turbo and NA engines?
mayby on weekend i will try to change FA if i find used...
A200T MC1 87`
12-08-2005, 07:04 AM
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Sorry, don't know the part number
I think that the accumulator is the same, whether for a turbo or naturally aspirated car. The Bentley manual shows a spec of a little less than 50 PSI.
12-09-2005, 06:04 PM
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Bosch part 0 438 170 052
<center><img src="http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/E400027486BOS.JPG"></center><p>
Available from any Worldpac reseller. SJM is one:<ul><li><a href="http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/sjm/022805/wizard.jsp?partner=sjm&clientid=sjm&baseur l=http://www.sjmauto.com/&cookieid=1OB1EJ7IG1OI1C6FVH&year=1988& ;make=AU&model=5000-QT-001&category=E&part=Fuel+
Available from any Worldpac reseller. SJM is one:<ul><li><a href="http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/sjm/022805/wizard.jsp?partner=sjm&clientid=sjm&baseur l=http://www.sjmauto.com/&cookieid=1OB1EJ7IG1OI1C6FVH&year=1988& ;make=AU&model=5000-QT-001&category=E&part=Fuel+