boxerfan

My mind is running wild...

Now I'm contemplating a k24 on the NF motor. Has anyone tried this? The motor is already 10:1 so lag will be a very limited factor. Since these blocks are so strong it would seem that starting with a good CR will only improve performance.

It is quite frustrating having exceeded the k26's capacity. The fuel is there but the turbo can't keep up. I'm thinking of removing the IC and plumbing straight in. No I'm not... yes I am... no I'm not... ... ... He is sane... and so am I...

Black-Wolf

you will hurt performance by removing the IC, possibly put in water injection or a sp ic as an upgrade.

boxerfan

performance rather than help. I think someone said thewre is a 6psi drop even when converted to single pass and that is very restrictive. The volume must at least quadruple the intake volume post turbo. I thought I might give it a shot. A good IC might improve performance by 10%. I'm betting at these high boost levels the loss is worse than the potential gain.

Looks like an NF with a stock or QLCC computer with about 6 to 8 psi of boost will provide quite excellent performance. It's 20hp better than the KZ motor (with CR of 8.5:1) and...

I'm in the middle of calculating/translating the air flow/fuel requirement of the NF as compared to the MC...

Avant Sport

Wouldn't the hotter boost air be more of a drop?

Black-Wolf

The air charge temp can hit pretty high numbers without it. the hotter the air the less dense it is so the less power you make. rather than ditching it all together use a water injection system for under high boost to cool it even further and make the air even denser. math is great but you have to consider real world variables. an IC thats perfect for the engine would be too large to install. if you want a real kicker try doing an ac/ic intercooler. I seen one done on a supercharged mustang. it was nothing more than a box with an evap core to the ac and the ic with a fan blowing the air between them. he was dropping ic temp as low as 40 deg below ambient. in 80 deg weather he was dumping 40 deg air into his engine. the loss from the compressor wasnt bad, it was more than made up for in the gains for colder air. (newer ac only requires 7 - 10hp to run)

boxerfan

Too bad my AC is punched because I'd do that in a minute.

The factory was only pushing 0.4 bar of boost. At such low pressures the losses aren't as high because the restriction through the core results in a greater pressure drop as you demand more air go through it <as I understand things so far>.

I definitely notice when the air temperature falls. We just went from 30C to 20C when a cold front passed through. The Seat-O-Pants-O-Meter definitely registered the difference. So that's a 10C drop in ambient - significant.

Perhaps a Washer fluid container with ice water and that other pressure switch... but I need a pump and... hmmm... worth the effort? Probably not.

The k26 does indeed turn the intake into a flame thrower at high rpms. The efficiency drops way below the 50% line and that means major heat build up.

I think I'm really looking for a k24 and an NF. I've got a line on an NF at the moment.

birdmanmt

btdt on an efi 80 w/mc2 engine. you would need water injection at the very least. that is the trend these days in turbo motorcycles, no IC and H20 injection.

if you need a reason to make your self multiple piece fractured con rods, by all means, have fun!

treehunter

and maybe rig up a few windshield/headlight squirters to shoot water at the core?

skiddmark

Cheap 20vt with that combo. But you will need some new manifolds and some plumbing work. But it should run on the CIS setup you have.

10v heads are not good for running much timing advance and like to detonate easily 20v's are much better in this regard. Running higher compression and no IC will probably really make the motor detonate easily and you will need run like only 6 deg advance under boost or less to get it not to ping.

skiddmark

I can watch my air intake temps climb on a long 4th or 5th gear pull.