dwengi

The fill cap rules out massive vac leak but there still could be a minor vac leak. I guess my next steps would be to pull codes, check thermoswitches, check fuel pressure, check WUR, check ISV.

secondslc

I have a Ross-tech scan device, is the 88 compatible, or will I have to read the codes through the check engine light?

I will look for leaks once I clean the engine bay out, its a grimey mess.

soutthpaw

not if he follows my directions, with all four wheels of the ground on jack stands. in fact you can verify the center differential by engaging it on pavement and then driving in a circle. it will bind up significantly... and you can test the function of any standard part time 4wd transfer case that way. however the rear diff, if you do it on a soft surface you would need a second person to stand outside and watch the inside rear wheel as you drive in a circle it should be spinning the same speed as the outside rear wheel...
however the way i explained before is preferable as it dose not put any excessive stress on the drivetrain components and only takes one person

shortyq

Classic symptom. Reach under the IC to Tbody hose and feel for a hole in that hose. Crankcase breather hoses next, then the big black white ck valve (for evap) to see if the diaphram is ripped.

This sounds like the flap is dropping too far when you take the foot off the gas, the CIS flap drops and you stall.

If you have no ck engine light, I doubt it's the sensors, but you can run the codes with the fuel pump relay fuse and see if you get one.

HTH

Scott J

dwengi

88 is non-OBD2

dwengi

I trust the indicator lights to tell me the things are locked as they have been reliable.

secondslc

Just wonering if that was the case.

secondslc

<center><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/2852545198_4cf5711461_b.jpg"></center><p>
I wanted to know what some of these parts are and where some of these connectors go. Some more issues...My repair manual is not in yet, can't wait to tackle these issues!

I have a brake light come on, and a bulb out warning as well as a coolant warning.

The bomb holds pressure after 20 pumps or so, so that doesnt seem to be it. The handbrake is not connected, I suspect a rebuild of the rear caliper is in order.

What bulbs are connected to the bulb out warning? I thought just turn signals and tail lamps? I will check the ground on the tail lamps.

The coolant warning....the temp gauge does not go high, I suspect the level sensor is bad, might clean it. What else can I check.

The multifunction computer display is only showing one segment. I hear that cold solder joints can be the problem, Ill check that as well. Any other ideas? I wanted to get this going to check boost and such.

First picture(above), seems broken and repaired, how important is this part?

Right above the brake fluid reservior
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/2851710003_d52d835520_b.jpg
I think this is the ISV? And I don't know where that plug goes
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3036/2851710481_509c9e05df_b.jpg


Thanks for all the help guys! Pictures of the car itself will come soon, I am trying to correct some paint defects so it doesn't look as horrendous.

icon73

well may cause a hot start issue in very warm weather.

reddiamond

did everbody miss the obivios here look at cap rotor and wires pull black plastic cover off cap also look at end of coil wire closely