Just put in new front strut inserts & now turning @ 55+ mph causes the front end to....
#1
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shake violently. Only turning to the right, not left does it. Going straight is fine.
This is on a '90 200TQ w/ 171K miles.
I just put in new KYB inserts, mounts, stops & boots. The install went fine & the car definately seems to ride alot better than before.
But, at 55+ mph if I accelerate & turn the wheel to the right at all the front (feels like drivers side) starts to bounce rapidly & violently. If I slow down it stops.
I double checked all & all nuts are torqued down & the strut cap is tight.
It did not do this before I changed the inserts.
Could the new stiff inserts make some other problem occur, like a worn bushing or something?
Or is the problem the struts or the install?
Any one have any ideas?
Please help.
Thanks.
This is on a '90 200TQ w/ 171K miles.
I just put in new KYB inserts, mounts, stops & boots. The install went fine & the car definately seems to ride alot better than before.
But, at 55+ mph if I accelerate & turn the wheel to the right at all the front (feels like drivers side) starts to bounce rapidly & violently. If I slow down it stops.
I double checked all & all nuts are torqued down & the strut cap is tight.
It did not do this before I changed the inserts.
Could the new stiff inserts make some other problem occur, like a worn bushing or something?
Or is the problem the struts or the install?
Any one have any ideas?
Please help.
Thanks.
#2
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double check that strut cap. After replacement of my Boge struts, I thought I also tightened these caps to spec. But subsequently from making turns, the caps loosened.
Another obvious reason is loose lug bolts.![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Are you sure you reassembled that strut correctly?
Ball joint, tierod ok?
If so, maybe that cartridge is defective.
Another obvious reason is loose lug bolts.
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Are you sure you reassembled that strut correctly?
Ball joint, tierod ok?
If so, maybe that cartridge is defective.
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too.
I will have to check the ball joint & tierod, but wouldn't those have caused the problem before if they were bad, instead of as soon as I changed the strut inserts?
I have been told that it may be the alignment if I didn't get everything back to the original position.
What do you think?
Thanks.
I will have to check the ball joint & tierod, but wouldn't those have caused the problem before if they were bad, instead of as soon as I changed the strut inserts?
I have been told that it may be the alignment if I didn't get everything back to the original position.
What do you think?
Thanks.
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will change your camber at that side. In turn, on these cars, negative camber should increase toe out, while positive camber increases toe in.
An easy tell-tale sign you got it wrong, would be after the strut install, a road test reveals the steering wheel is no longer where it was before the job.
I'm assuming you replaced these by dropping them thru the strut tower.
Even with slightly off camber, and toe, I've never experienced violent vertical oscillations to a wheel at high speed. The only time was from a completely blown damper.
Any play in the strut piston would mimic this. That's why I asked are you positive of reassembly.
Assuming the strut is good...there has to be loose/worn parts elsewhere.
Also check the lower control arm bushings. If there's play at the subframe connection, it may cause this.
HTH and good luck.
An easy tell-tale sign you got it wrong, would be after the strut install, a road test reveals the steering wheel is no longer where it was before the job.
I'm assuming you replaced these by dropping them thru the strut tower.
Even with slightly off camber, and toe, I've never experienced violent vertical oscillations to a wheel at high speed. The only time was from a completely blown damper.
Any play in the strut piston would mimic this. That's why I asked are you positive of reassembly.
Assuming the strut is good...there has to be loose/worn parts elsewhere.
Also check the lower control arm bushings. If there's play at the subframe connection, it may cause this.
HTH and good luck.
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slightly to the right.
I took it for a 2nd longer ride & found.
You can go 80 fine as long as you do not turn the wheel.
As soon as you turn it to the right it shakes.
To the left is fine.
Also, bumps don't seem to matter after all.
Any one have any ideas?
I took it for a 2nd longer ride & found.
You can go 80 fine as long as you do not turn the wheel.
As soon as you turn it to the right it shakes.
To the left is fine.
Also, bumps don't seem to matter after all.
Any one have any ideas?
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#10
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since the steering wheel still points as it did,
that means neither side's toe changed, or both wheels' toe changed equally.
Perhaps the old mounts sagged inward under weight, and the firmer new mounts don't. Thus your camber got more positive for the same mount position. That would mean the you have excessive toe in.
too much toe in causes a twitchy steering wheel, massive understeer with alot of tire scrubbing to the outer edge.
perhaps only the driver's side exhibits the oscillation due to a worn lower control arm bushing.
I'd get a good wheel alignment and see if the condition goes away.
that means neither side's toe changed, or both wheels' toe changed equally.
Perhaps the old mounts sagged inward under weight, and the firmer new mounts don't. Thus your camber got more positive for the same mount position. That would mean the you have excessive toe in.
too much toe in causes a twitchy steering wheel, massive understeer with alot of tire scrubbing to the outer edge.
perhaps only the driver's side exhibits the oscillation due to a worn lower control arm bushing.
I'd get a good wheel alignment and see if the condition goes away.