treehunter

She runs great once started but getting there involves about 7 seconds of cranking then raunchy plume of fuel smoke.

Hot-start is not an issue, ever.

Injectors cleaned & tested, pump, check-valve and filter are new.

ISV & CSV both function. No vac leaks that I have found (yet). Dipstick / oil cap removal does the stumble or die thing.

Ditched the platinum plugs for new single electrode W7's. Been wanting to do that for a while as the platinum's apparently suck.

Cap and rotor have less than 5k on them.

Engine, ecu grounds are clean and tight, installed new extra massive ground twixt engine and chassis cuz I had one.

FPR/fuse solenoid test tells me all those little fellas are along for the ride.

Have yet to put together a 5 buck LED tester to pull codes...totally my lazy bad. I did pull, test and clean all the temp sensors, they check out fine.

At this point I'm thinking it can't be fuel and slowly leaning towards the spark plug wires even though they are only a couple of years old and the car runs beautifully once started...assuming parts quality isn't what it used to be this may be the weakest link...

Whatcha think guys?

boxerfan

Dooooooooode... pull codes... spend the few minutes to make the test leads.

kalon

Not to steal the thread, but I'm having the same problem. The only code I'm pulling is an overboost code caused by my wastegate diaphragm. Could this be causing the hardstart? I even replaced the fuel accumalator. Any suggestions are appreciated.

boxerfan

Things aren't usually identical when guy is pulling an overboost code and the other has non codes.

Overboost can cause lean conditions, burned plugs, premature detonation (especially if the iggy leads are shot) and so on.

Like Katman has mentioned many times... be methodical. Every test you do should prove or disprove something. Once you start stepping through the "If this then that" scenarios you will be left with one possibility. Pulling codes is a good start.

OK... off the soapbox... no... it isn't likely that the overboost is causing the hard start. Are you hitting fuel cut really easy? Then it is probably a torn fragem.... but... only you can truly diagnose the issue. Have you checked the loses to and from the WG? WGFV? Other lines?

steamboataudi

Only I don't seem to know as much about this car as you guys- I need to spend some more time searching the archives, I guess. If the ambient temp is above 50 or so, the cold start injector does not come into play, correct? it truly is a "cold start" injector- cold outside temp, not cold engine?

treehunter

As the engine could already be warmed up even it's minus Greenland-ish outside.