Lt1 Audi
#21
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I had a 280Z with an TPI SBC. Get the book from "Jaguars That Run". They have diagrams, etc, for mounts, exhaust, radiator, driveshaft and the rest. Don't use the original Scarab location for the motor. It is too high and effects handling. If you have a little body flex (most of them do from metal loss) the distributor will contact the body and crack/shatter the cap.
#22
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I talked to KEP about it a couple of years ago. They originally made the adapter for the guy with the "FlyingHead" site. When I talked to them,they just had a pattern around, hadn't made another.
#24
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That is my guess as well, which is why they started doing the SBF adapter as well as the SBC. The kits are actually reasonably priced, $600-something w/out starter and some other bits, $1070(?) for the whole adaptation package (minus motor mount stuff obviously).
I still think a Fox 302 in a type44 would be near perfect. Those things sound great to boot, and the stroker motors start to sound like a big block IMO...
I still think a Fox 302 in a type44 would be near perfect. Those things sound great to boot, and the stroker motors start to sound like a big block IMO...
#26
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I thought the LT1 was shorter front to back than the 302. I can easily cut a hole in the top of the hood to accomidate the height of an engine.
I don't know much about how the Quattro system is set up. I was wandering if I could just put on a shorter drive shaft to get the radiator to fit in the front. My cousin made a drive shaft for his 302 (stroked to 310) RX-7 to move the engine back 3" to make room for his radiator. Is this possible with Quattro?
I don't know much about how the Quattro system is set up. I was wandering if I could just put on a shorter drive shaft to get the radiator to fit in the front. My cousin made a drive shaft for his 302 (stroked to 310) RX-7 to move the engine back 3" to make room for his radiator. Is this possible with Quattro?
#27
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Because the drive from the front axles is taken from the transmission, movement of the transmission would take the axles out of alignment.
I don't have a measurement on the Audi engine, but being an inline engine, it is doubtless taller that either the Chevy or Ford V-8. A V-8 is a very compact design.
Raising the motor is probably not a good solution, it would put additional strain on three driveshafts. It would also raise the roll center (hope I have the right term there) of the car, effecting handling adversely.
I don't have a measurement on the Audi engine, but being an inline engine, it is doubtless taller that either the Chevy or Ford V-8. A V-8 is a very compact design.
Raising the motor is probably not a good solution, it would put additional strain on three driveshafts. It would also raise the roll center (hope I have the right term there) of the car, effecting handling adversely.
#28
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That's a great looking DOHC four . . .and it does resemble the Offy. It's hard to believe that Harry Miller's 1923(?) design still looks so modern.
Though it's a dated design and lacks the Quad4's classic looks, the Rover all aluminum 3.5 liter V-8 (originally designed and built by GM as a 215 cubic inch) was at one time a popular conversion engine. It's compact, light, and has been the basis for many successful race engines. On the street it's been used in everything from Range Rovers to Triumph TR8s. A friend dropped a Buick version in his Austin Healey 3000 to make it go. I have no idea how well supported the Rover or its Buick - Olds - Pontiac predecessor is these days in America.
There are differences between the original GM 215 CI design and the later Rover 3.5 liter, so many parts can't be interchanged. I'd guess that Buick Specials c 1963 can be found for next to nothing. But then, if one wanted to fuel infect it . . . it would run into money. Hmmm . . . maybe this engine *isn't* such a good idea today!
I think that GM sold the 215 CI V8 to Rover because it was expensive to cast the block and GM had subsequently developed a way of casting thinwall iron blocks which weighed little more and cost much less.<ul><li><a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/215arts.html">http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/215arts.html</a</li></ul>
Though it's a dated design and lacks the Quad4's classic looks, the Rover all aluminum 3.5 liter V-8 (originally designed and built by GM as a 215 cubic inch) was at one time a popular conversion engine. It's compact, light, and has been the basis for many successful race engines. On the street it's been used in everything from Range Rovers to Triumph TR8s. A friend dropped a Buick version in his Austin Healey 3000 to make it go. I have no idea how well supported the Rover or its Buick - Olds - Pontiac predecessor is these days in America.
There are differences between the original GM 215 CI design and the later Rover 3.5 liter, so many parts can't be interchanged. I'd guess that Buick Specials c 1963 can be found for next to nothing. But then, if one wanted to fuel infect it . . . it would run into money. Hmmm . . . maybe this engine *isn't* such a good idea today!
I think that GM sold the 215 CI V8 to Rover because it was expensive to cast the block and GM had subsequently developed a way of casting thinwall iron blocks which weighed little more and cost much less.<ul><li><a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/215arts.html">http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/215arts.html</a</li></ul>
#29
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You COULD move it back some, but not a whole bunch (1", maybe 2 at the most?). I'd see how much shorter a B-series quattro prop shaft is before hacking up a type44q prop shaft is.
I think with either motor, running a dry sump system with a (custom) sump would be the best way to cure (some) of the height issue. Running a non-braced glass fiber hood also gives another inch of clearance or so on the top side (just depends on which Audi hood you are talking about, and how thick the glass hood is). Plus with a glass hood, you could make it into a cowl or shaker hood...
And yes, you would change the cg and the roll center. Its what I thought Scott and Bob did when they moved the subframe a bit (I remember Scott saying that the nose was raised 1" over stock due to the subframe stuff).
I think with either motor, running a dry sump system with a (custom) sump would be the best way to cure (some) of the height issue. Running a non-braced glass fiber hood also gives another inch of clearance or so on the top side (just depends on which Audi hood you are talking about, and how thick the glass hood is). Plus with a glass hood, you could make it into a cowl or shaker hood...
And yes, you would change the cg and the roll center. Its what I thought Scott and Bob did when they moved the subframe a bit (I remember Scott saying that the nose was raised 1" over stock due to the subframe stuff).
#30
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Just pop an Avant body on this<ul><li><a href="http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0308sr_chasis/">http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0308sr_chasis/</a</li></ul>