orangedawg

Hi,

I replaced my timing belt last fall and found a few leaks. Spent this spring hunting down source (thanks to all on list who helped out!) and believe it's the tensioner pulley bolt that is source of leaks through process of elimination. Put thread seal on it. Tightened it down with torque wrench. I could lie here and say I lost bolt and need a new one, but in reality I tightened it way too much (I even knew it was supposed to be 15 ft/lbs) and maybe I didn't feel wrench click or what, but broke the bolt off!!! (( Not real happy. The tensioner pulley is still attached by a few threads, but not much else.

So, how do I get snapped bolt out? One of those bolt retractors or whatever their called at Sears?

Second, does anyone know what size the bolt is and does anyone have a spare one? Help!!

Kneale Brownson

It's an M6 62mm long. Can you get to the inside threads on the pulley to extract it? Then, you'd have enough bolt shank left maybe to use vise grips.

orangedawg

Apparently the bolt snapped off deeper than I thought. I bought a broken bolt extractor but it's not long enough. Maybe I can find a longer one. I thought I could just remove the tensioner pulley but I can't get it off. I can't get the tensioner pulley off without removing crank pulley as crank pulley is in the way. Super.

Kneale Brownson

Do you have a puller for that idler pulley (it's not really a tensioner--the waterpump does the tensioning--so it's an idler pulley)?

Something that looks a bit like:

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/22500147/medium.jpg">

There are threads on the ID of the idler that are used to remove it from its pressed-on perch. If your M6 bolt broke off far enough inside the idler, you should be able to get a bolt (I think it's an M10) started into the idler to remove it.

orangedawg

crank pulley to get idler pulley off though, correct? I'd prefer not to have to remove the crank pulley as it's kind of a pain to get off and I don't have the tools (idler pulley remover, crank pulley locking tool, etc.). I rented them from blauparts last fall, but you can only do that with a purchase of timing belt kit. I'm in a small town so tool options are limited, i.e non-existent.

Kneale Brownson

I don't understand your statement there's a 1/4-1/2 inch of thread showing. That bolt, # 9 in the illustration, only has threads on the inner end. It has a long shank below the head with no threads. If you can see 1/4 inch of threads or so, it must be almost all the way out???? I'd try one of those reverse drill bolt remover tools from Sears. You drill into the bolt a short distance in reverse, and that often will extract the bolt.

<img src="http://www.vagcat.com/p/B045/009000.png">

Even with the crank pulley removed, it'll be next to impossible to pry out the idler. It's designed to be pulled off its mounting by using the internal threads and a puller like I showed previously. I tried getting it off without a puller on the first timing belt I did and learned it just doesn't pry off. You'll be destroying it too, so you'll need a replacement if you can't use the puller.

orangedawg

The bolt is that one that you show with a shaft and then threads at the end. It's at that threaded end where it's broke. The problem with drilling it out with those bolt extractor things (I have them) is that they aren't long enough. I can put them in the "hole" but they go almost all the way in until they hit the broken part of the screw and there isn't anything I can "grab onto" to turn the extractor. Second, because the crank pulley is in the way, it would be hard to get a "straight shot" at the bolt with a drill.

The idler pulley does have threads on it so maybe that's what the puller uses to thread onto?

BTW, after I removed the grill, bumper and bumper "posts" (those things [love my technical talk?] that the bumper attaches to and those things screw onto the frame with three bolts) I am left with sheet metal that runs across the front of the car right in line with the crank pulley. It's painted the body color. How do I remove that to get a better access? I replaced my timing belt before with it in, but it sure would be easier with it out. I removed the "bumper posts" mentioned above but it still won't come out and I can't figure out what is holding it on. With it removed, I might be able to get a better angle on the broken bolt with a longer drill bit and try to get it out. Thanks!!!