Need Help with No Start (Long!!!!!!!!)
#1
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Still working at getting 87' 5KCST working.
Here is what I already have done.
1) No Spark fixed.
New reference sensors
Used Distributor
New Plugs, Cap and Rotor (Used wires)
2) No Gas fixed.
New Pierburg Pump
New Injectors
New Fuel Filter
I rebuilt my Fuel Distributor.
What was done Today:
I re-torqued my rebuild Fuel Distributor because it was leaking, leak fixed. The plunger seems to be sticking still, but it does move up and down. I installed the fuel filter, and had all the lines drain in a bucket. I put a fuse in the fuel relay and primed the system. I controled the air meter with my hand. all fuel lines are receiving and spitting out fuel.
I pluged everything together, installed cap, rotor and new plugs, started up with no problem sounded sweet.
Problem, I let it idle, it never found idle, it idled in the 2000 rpm range. I looked for air leaks and fiddled with the air-meter boot, this is when the car died and would not come back on.
Funny when the car was running, lots of black stuff was comming out of the tail pipe.
I took a plug out and there was no sign of fuel.
I think that my rebuilt attempt failed, the Fuel Dizzy seems to hard and not free moving like it should.
Question, I checked the idle switch and it was off, would that make the car run at 2000 rpm.
I'm lost, with this damn thing, it runs good when it is on, but smells really bad, like it is running rich, even with the new injectors.
Would a bad Fuel Dizzy cause all this, or should I be looking at the warm up regulator ??
Here is what I already have done.
1) No Spark fixed.
New reference sensors
Used Distributor
New Plugs, Cap and Rotor (Used wires)
2) No Gas fixed.
New Pierburg Pump
New Injectors
New Fuel Filter
I rebuilt my Fuel Distributor.
What was done Today:
I re-torqued my rebuild Fuel Distributor because it was leaking, leak fixed. The plunger seems to be sticking still, but it does move up and down. I installed the fuel filter, and had all the lines drain in a bucket. I put a fuse in the fuel relay and primed the system. I controled the air meter with my hand. all fuel lines are receiving and spitting out fuel.
I pluged everything together, installed cap, rotor and new plugs, started up with no problem sounded sweet.
Problem, I let it idle, it never found idle, it idled in the 2000 rpm range. I looked for air leaks and fiddled with the air-meter boot, this is when the car died and would not come back on.
Funny when the car was running, lots of black stuff was comming out of the tail pipe.
I took a plug out and there was no sign of fuel.
I think that my rebuilt attempt failed, the Fuel Dizzy seems to hard and not free moving like it should.
Question, I checked the idle switch and it was off, would that make the car run at 2000 rpm.
I'm lost, with this damn thing, it runs good when it is on, but smells really bad, like it is running rich, even with the new injectors.
Would a bad Fuel Dizzy cause all this, or should I be looking at the warm up regulator ??
#2
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"fixed. The plunger seems to be sticking still, but it does move "
This is not good you will have to replace the fuel distributor. The plunger must move freely.
The warm up regulator will increase the pressure as the heating element warms up.
When you did the test for spray pattern did the fuel come out in a fine mist?
Your plugs will tell you if you're running rich, they will be black with soot if you are running rich.
This is not good you will have to replace the fuel distributor. The plunger must move freely.
The warm up regulator will increase the pressure as the heating element warms up.
When you did the test for spray pattern did the fuel come out in a fine mist?
Your plugs will tell you if you're running rich, they will be black with soot if you are running rich.
#3
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Audiqv8,
Thanks for the reply.
My injectors are brand spanking new and have a mist pattern. I replaced my plugs, and when I take them out I'm not getting any fuel, at least they don't smell like fuel.
I failed to mention that when I was testing my fuel distributor, there are two things that I found out.
1) The air meter needs lots of physical pressure (by hand) in order to open up the fuel. I don't know if this is caused by fuel pressure in side the fuel distributor or from the fact that the plunger is sticking. The plunger does close real fast, though.
2) The hose from the Air Meter Boot going back to motor near the ISV was plugged close by the previous owner. It was plugged by another rubber hose and a large metal bolt. I removed the plug and checked out the idle/WOT switch. It needed to be adjusted.
Damn, the previous owner plugged the Air meter boot because the idle/WOT switch was not positioned correctly.
This would account for such large amounts of fuel being sucked into the motor, right? and a large amount of black carbon soot in the cylinders right? (When it started this morning, there was lots of black stuff comming out of the tailpipe.)
The car still doesn't start, I removed the airfilter, pushed the fuel distributor by hand and it wants to run.
Something is preventing the fuel distributor from sending gas to the new injectors.
Question: would running the motor with air meter boot plugged, and the Idle switch off, cause the fuel distributor to fail, and is all this black stuff in the cylinders a sign that the motor is bad ??
I swear, when I started it this morning, it purred sweet
, but after about 2 mins, and such a high idle, it started to act like it was out of gas.
Thanks,
LarryF_in_Ca
Thanks for the reply.
My injectors are brand spanking new and have a mist pattern. I replaced my plugs, and when I take them out I'm not getting any fuel, at least they don't smell like fuel.
I failed to mention that when I was testing my fuel distributor, there are two things that I found out.
1) The air meter needs lots of physical pressure (by hand) in order to open up the fuel. I don't know if this is caused by fuel pressure in side the fuel distributor or from the fact that the plunger is sticking. The plunger does close real fast, though.
2) The hose from the Air Meter Boot going back to motor near the ISV was plugged close by the previous owner. It was plugged by another rubber hose and a large metal bolt. I removed the plug and checked out the idle/WOT switch. It needed to be adjusted.
Damn, the previous owner plugged the Air meter boot because the idle/WOT switch was not positioned correctly.
This would account for such large amounts of fuel being sucked into the motor, right? and a large amount of black carbon soot in the cylinders right? (When it started this morning, there was lots of black stuff comming out of the tailpipe.)
The car still doesn't start, I removed the airfilter, pushed the fuel distributor by hand and it wants to run.
Something is preventing the fuel distributor from sending gas to the new injectors.
Question: would running the motor with air meter boot plugged, and the Idle switch off, cause the fuel distributor to fail, and is all this black stuff in the cylinders a sign that the motor is bad ??
I swear, when I started it this morning, it purred sweet
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks,
LarryF_in_Ca
#4
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What could be happening is that the gas tank liner is falling apart and the new fuel pump screen is clogging up. After all the car sat for several years. If this is the case, then to solve the problem is to cut the screen off and change the fuel filter more often.
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