A quick question about Lifter Clacking...

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Old 01-20-2007, 09:55 PM
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Default A quick question about Lifter Clacking...

- 87 audi5000cs


so my car has the hydraulic lifters and is also 19 years old. I usually hear a decent amount of lifter clicking. is that normal or should i buy some new ones... if they clack a little bit thats not a reason why i shouldent chip the ecu right.
Old 01-20-2007, 10:28 PM
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Default Normal as lifters age...

It's debatable on just how much performance an old lifter gives up. Hard to measure that percentage.

I assume your lifters make noise at startup and then quiet down some? That's pretty normal for higher mileage types.

Chip away.

FWIW, new lifters are $8-10 a piece and maybe an hour to R&R.

Steve
Michigan
Old 01-20-2007, 11:56 PM
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Default Try changing to 20W50 (unless you still have winter cold) & a german oil filter (Mann, Mahle,

Bosch). And make sure to never use Fram filters.
Old 01-21-2007, 05:04 AM
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Default An hour to R&R ?

Don't the camshafts [shaft in MC speak] have to be removed? In which case many hours seems more accurate.

Bob
Old 01-21-2007, 05:20 AM
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Default If you're as slow as I am, it requires a few hours.

Alldata says that it's a 2.6 hour job for a turbo ten valve engine and 4.6 hours job for a 1991 20 valve motor. IIRC, no special tools are required.



The following comes under the heading, "As long as I'm in there . . .":

While I'm replacing the lifters on a tired motor that smokes, I'd consider replacing the valve guide seals: Alldata says that it's a five hour job for a turbo ten valve engine and 5.9 hours for a 1991 20 valve motor.

Replacing the valve guide seals in the car requires a valve spring compressor tool that's designed for use on heads with "hidden" valve springs. A standard valve spring compressor won't work. ALso, a special pair of pliers that're designed for this job are nice, if not absolutely necessary, to grip and remove each old seal. A special tool to seat new seals is also nice, if not absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you may damage the new seals.

There's a fair amount of skill and patience required. The retainers are small and tricky to re-install.

Also, be sure not to allow any valves to drop into the combustion chamber while you've removed the valve retainers. BTDT . . . d'oh!
Old 01-21-2007, 06:50 AM
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Is it maybe the vacuum pump pushrod?Run some kero for 10 min fill with a 15w-40 or 10w-40 High-Miles
Old 01-21-2007, 06:59 AM
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Default I must assert that non-German filters work perfectly. Even premium Frams are good....

STP S3569, Puralator L30257/L40316 are great filters and the better Fram 28070A have a lot of good features. Screened media, screened BPV silicone ADBV. Really, the German filter thing is Urban Myth/OCD/uninformed speculation. I could take the point much further, but stating just that there is no meaningful benefit to German filters. How about BOSCH Premium #3500 from AutoZone. It's made by Champion Labs, same company making the $2 Supertech the STP and Mobil 1.
Old 01-21-2007, 07:13 AM
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Default Vacuum pump? What vacuum pump?

AFAIK, the only vacuum pump that's under the hood on my '88 5000CSTQ is the one that's dedicated to cruise control.

But I'm willing to learn . . .
Old 01-21-2007, 08:32 AM
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Fram is NOT good for the 5 cyl, no anti drainback valve.
Old 01-21-2007, 08:39 AM
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Default There isn't on turbo cars, he's thinking of n/a 5 cyl's w/o hydraulic assist braking

<ul><li><a href="http://www.endosquid.com/audi/aud4kfix_vacpum.htm">this is the rod he's thinking of</a></li></ul>


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