A quick question about Lifter Clacking...
#1
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- 87 audi5000cs
so my car has the hydraulic lifters and is also 19 years old. I usually hear a decent amount of lifter clicking. is that normal or should i buy some new ones... if they clack a little bit thats not a reason why i shouldent chip the ecu right.
so my car has the hydraulic lifters and is also 19 years old. I usually hear a decent amount of lifter clicking. is that normal or should i buy some new ones... if they clack a little bit thats not a reason why i shouldent chip the ecu right.
#2
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It's debatable on just how much performance an old lifter gives up. Hard to measure that percentage.
I assume your lifters make noise at startup and then quiet down some? That's pretty normal for higher mileage types.
Chip away.
FWIW, new lifters are $8-10 a piece and maybe an hour to R&R.
Steve
Michigan
I assume your lifters make noise at startup and then quiet down some? That's pretty normal for higher mileage types.
Chip away.
FWIW, new lifters are $8-10 a piece and maybe an hour to R&R.
Steve
Michigan
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Alldata says that it's a 2.6 hour job for a turbo ten valve engine and 4.6 hours job for a 1991 20 valve motor. IIRC, no special tools are required.
The following comes under the heading, "As long as I'm in there . . .":
While I'm replacing the lifters on a tired motor that smokes, I'd consider replacing the valve guide seals: Alldata says that it's a five hour job for a turbo ten valve engine and 5.9 hours for a 1991 20 valve motor.
Replacing the valve guide seals in the car requires a valve spring compressor tool that's designed for use on heads with "hidden" valve springs. A standard valve spring compressor won't work. ALso, a special pair of pliers that're designed for this job are nice, if not absolutely necessary, to grip and remove each old seal. A special tool to seat new seals is also nice, if not absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you may damage the new seals.
There's a fair amount of skill and patience required. The retainers are small and tricky to re-install.
Also, be sure not to allow any valves to drop into the combustion chamber while you've removed the valve retainers. BTDT . . . d'oh!
The following comes under the heading, "As long as I'm in there . . .":
While I'm replacing the lifters on a tired motor that smokes, I'd consider replacing the valve guide seals: Alldata says that it's a five hour job for a turbo ten valve engine and 5.9 hours for a 1991 20 valve motor.
Replacing the valve guide seals in the car requires a valve spring compressor tool that's designed for use on heads with "hidden" valve springs. A standard valve spring compressor won't work. ALso, a special pair of pliers that're designed for this job are nice, if not absolutely necessary, to grip and remove each old seal. A special tool to seat new seals is also nice, if not absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you may damage the new seals.
There's a fair amount of skill and patience required. The retainers are small and tricky to re-install.
Also, be sure not to allow any valves to drop into the combustion chamber while you've removed the valve retainers. BTDT . . . d'oh!
#7
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STP S3569, Puralator L30257/L40316 are great filters and the better Fram 28070A have a lot of good features. Screened media, screened BPV silicone ADBV. Really, the German filter thing is Urban Myth/OCD/uninformed speculation. I could take the point much further, but stating just that there is no meaningful benefit to German filters. How about BOSCH Premium #3500 from AutoZone. It's made by Champion Labs, same company making the $2 Supertech the STP and Mobil 1.
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#8
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AFAIK, the only vacuum pump that's under the hood on my '88 5000CSTQ is the one that's dedicated to cruise control.
But I'm willing to learn . . .
But I'm willing to learn . . .
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<ul><li><a href="http://www.endosquid.com/audi/aud4kfix_vacpum.htm">this is the rod he's thinking of</a></li></ul>