Radiator replacement.
12-08-2006, 11:20 AM
#4
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The repair insert is a bandaid on a cut that requires stitches...
Every instance I have read about the repair kit being used ended up being an unsatisfactory fix. You need to go ahead and replace the radiator.
From personal experience the Modines have the thickest cores, unfortunately they do not make the all metal version anymore - gotta go with their plastic tanked version if you go Modine. Radiator(s).com had good prices last time I bought one, can't remember if there is an 's' at the end of the word radiator but try both spellings, the one I used had next day shipping for cheap. Takes between an hour and three hours, depending on the amount you are shivering.
Tips as follows:
1. Break loose the nut on the bottom of the radiator first. If it is original, the rubber doughnut support that screws into the bottom of the radiator will crumble in your hands. Buy a new one just in case. Also buy the rubber doughnut thingies that support the upper radiator as well.
2. The hose from the expansion tank is one diameter at one end, and another diameter at the other. Same thing applies as in number one above, buy a new one first and use new clamps.
3. The three way upper radiator hose is very expensive (I remember a quote of $70 from Jim Elli$ Audi in Atlanta), buy a replacement first as they tear if they are on the car for extended periods and don't like to break loose from the block and radiator inlets/outlets.
Boy, I'm having fun spending your money here at Christmas time, aren't I? Sorry about that.
4. Disconnect the battery and remove the fan and radiator as a unit. Place a 70amp or 80amp inline fuse back in line with the fan ground lead when replacing the fan, replacing the front harness is a brass plated biotch if your fan seizes and the high speed fan relay welds it's contacts together - can you say runaway electrical fire? If you do not do this step, keep a phillips head and a 10mm box end wrench in the glove compartment so when it happens, you can pull the back seat and disconnect the negative lead on the battery. But you won't really need to, since by the time it takes to do all this the whole engine compartment will be engulfed in flames.
5. The 7 blade fan from the later 200's is MUCH quieter than the stock 4 blade, visit your local junkyard to see if you can find one. Bonus note: the nut holding it onto the fan motor is a reverse thread (go ahead, ask me how I know!).
6. Beer should have it's own food group.
That's all for now, good luck.
From personal experience the Modines have the thickest cores, unfortunately they do not make the all metal version anymore - gotta go with their plastic tanked version if you go Modine. Radiator(s).com had good prices last time I bought one, can't remember if there is an 's' at the end of the word radiator but try both spellings, the one I used had next day shipping for cheap. Takes between an hour and three hours, depending on the amount you are shivering.
Tips as follows:
1. Break loose the nut on the bottom of the radiator first. If it is original, the rubber doughnut support that screws into the bottom of the radiator will crumble in your hands. Buy a new one just in case. Also buy the rubber doughnut thingies that support the upper radiator as well.
2. The hose from the expansion tank is one diameter at one end, and another diameter at the other. Same thing applies as in number one above, buy a new one first and use new clamps.
3. The three way upper radiator hose is very expensive (I remember a quote of $70 from Jim Elli$ Audi in Atlanta), buy a replacement first as they tear if they are on the car for extended periods and don't like to break loose from the block and radiator inlets/outlets.
Boy, I'm having fun spending your money here at Christmas time, aren't I? Sorry about that.
4. Disconnect the battery and remove the fan and radiator as a unit. Place a 70amp or 80amp inline fuse back in line with the fan ground lead when replacing the fan, replacing the front harness is a brass plated biotch if your fan seizes and the high speed fan relay welds it's contacts together - can you say runaway electrical fire? If you do not do this step, keep a phillips head and a 10mm box end wrench in the glove compartment so when it happens, you can pull the back seat and disconnect the negative lead on the battery. But you won't really need to, since by the time it takes to do all this the whole engine compartment will be engulfed in flames.
5. The 7 blade fan from the later 200's is MUCH quieter than the stock 4 blade, visit your local junkyard to see if you can find one. Bonus note: the nut holding it onto the fan motor is a reverse thread (go ahead, ask me how I know!).
6. Beer should have it's own food group.
That's all for now, good luck.
12-08-2006, 11:31 AM
#6
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Re: anyone have the repair insert # 200121001 for the rad. need a quick fix and >
You talking about the top radiator neck that breaks off? Before I replaced the main radiator on my 200q20v, I drove it for at least a year with a piece of copper pipe that I think was 1.25 inches epoxied in place. I had it left over from installing a wood boiler connected to the fuel oil boiler plumbing.
Since I had the pipe and the epoxy on hand, it was a pretty cheap fix that lasted quite a while. I soldered a bit of 12-gauge solid wire around the lip to serve as a hose retainer. If I remember correctly, the pipe just slid into the broken off neck. I just sanded both surfaces well, assembled with the epoxy and let it cure overnight.
I can measure the pipe and get a pix if you want.
Since I had the pipe and the epoxy on hand, it was a pretty cheap fix that lasted quite a while. I soldered a bit of 12-gauge solid wire around the lip to serve as a hose retainer. If I remember correctly, the pipe just slid into the broken off neck. I just sanded both surfaces well, assembled with the epoxy and let it cure overnight.
I can measure the pipe and get a pix if you want.
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12-08-2006, 02:37 PM
#9
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Re: Yup, Please measure and email @
Rather do it this way than via email to share the information.
The copper pipe has an OD of 1 3/8, which I think is referred to as 1 1/4 tube because that's probably the ID. Valves soldered onto this pipe carry the 1 1/4 nomenclature.
I just used some epoxy I had around. If I remember correctly, the pipe slid into the opening in the radiator left when the neck broke off.
<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/71383807.jpg">
The copper pipe has an OD of 1 3/8, which I think is referred to as 1 1/4 tube because that's probably the ID. Valves soldered onto this pipe carry the 1 1/4 nomenclature.
I just used some epoxy I had around. If I remember correctly, the pipe slid into the opening in the radiator left when the neck broke off.
<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/71383807.jpg">
