Relay for Radiator fan Q:
03-18-2005, 11:53 AM
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Relay for Radiator fan Q:
<center><img src="http://www.quattro123.com/Photos/FusePanel559A.jpg"></center><p>In the 200 20V (1991) in the fuse box under the hood, is a relay #214. There are two of them. If I remove the one circled here:
http://www.quattro123.com/Photos/FusePanel559A.jpg
the fan will not run when I take the igintion key out.
Is there a way to test this relay to see if its good?
The fan WILL turn off after a while, but the cold temps kill the battery.
Does anyone know what feeds this relay?
-SCott by BOSTON<ul><li><a href="http://www.quattro123.com/Photos200.htm">More info here:</a></li></ul>
http://www.quattro123.com/Photos/FusePanel559A.jpg
the fan will not run when I take the igintion key out.
Is there a way to test this relay to see if its good?
The fan WILL turn off after a while, but the cold temps kill the battery.
Does anyone know what feeds this relay?
-SCott by BOSTON<ul><li><a href="http://www.quattro123.com/Photos200.htm">More info here:</a></li></ul>
03-18-2005, 12:47 PM
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Re: Relay for Radiator fan Q:
Don't know how to test that relay, but I noticed that there is another 214 relay in the slot next to the one you pulled. Why don't you swap the relays and see if you get the same fan operation. I doubt if both relays are bad.
My wild *** stab at troubleshooting..:-)
My wild *** stab at troubleshooting..:-)
03-18-2005, 05:29 PM
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I assume it's the low-speed fan relay.
Since you mentioned it's supposed to run after you remove the ignition key.
It's fed by the climate control head and the after-run pump relay (driver's kick panel).
If your rad fan is running at low speed after the ignition is off, then the after-run system kicked on. I've never noticed the system to run more than a few minutes, especially in cold weather. Next time, open the hood and check that both the after-run pump and fan is on. Monitor the pump. If it shuts down but the fan continues, the relay arced and is defective. If both runs for a long time, unplug the temp sender feed to the the after-run relay. If the system shuts off, the sender is bad. Otherwise the after-run relay has arc-ed and is defective.
the 214 relay is just a spst 40-amp bosch relay. You can try bench testing it with a resistive load that'll draw 30-40A to see if the contacts arc and weld closed.
I can't see it being that expensive to replace.
Try:<ul><li><a href="http://www.waytekwire.com/">http://www.waytekwire.com/</a</li></ul>
It's fed by the climate control head and the after-run pump relay (driver's kick panel).
If your rad fan is running at low speed after the ignition is off, then the after-run system kicked on. I've never noticed the system to run more than a few minutes, especially in cold weather. Next time, open the hood and check that both the after-run pump and fan is on. Monitor the pump. If it shuts down but the fan continues, the relay arced and is defective. If both runs for a long time, unplug the temp sender feed to the the after-run relay. If the system shuts off, the sender is bad. Otherwise the after-run relay has arc-ed and is defective.
the 214 relay is just a spst 40-amp bosch relay. You can try bench testing it with a resistive load that'll draw 30-40A to see if the contacts arc and weld closed.
I can't see it being that expensive to replace.
Try:<ul><li><a href="http://www.waytekwire.com/">http://www.waytekwire.com/</a</li></ul>
03-18-2005, 08:21 PM
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Looks like a quality vendor, Will. Thanks for the URL.
I have a hard time finding good quality weatherproof wiring components such as heat shrink fully insulated connectors, extra heavy heat shrink tubing, etc -- and this vendor has them!
A note to automotive wiring beginners: the wiring components (wire, terminals, connectors, etc) that are sold by most automotive parts retailers (Pep Boys, Autozone, et al) are junk. Yes, they initially work, but after they've been subjected to extremes of temperature, vibration, and soaking in fluids of all sorts, they fail. Tip: spend the extra money and time and source good quality components and carefully assemble them using the right tools. In the long run, it's time and money well spent.
Will has found a vendor of what seems to be really top quality stuff.
A note to automotive wiring beginners: the wiring components (wire, terminals, connectors, etc) that are sold by most automotive parts retailers (Pep Boys, Autozone, et al) are junk. Yes, they initially work, but after they've been subjected to extremes of temperature, vibration, and soaking in fluids of all sorts, they fail. Tip: spend the extra money and time and source good quality components and carefully assemble them using the right tools. In the long run, it's time and money well spent.
Will has found a vendor of what seems to be really top quality stuff.
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