FiatLancia

I'll keep this question brief as I can.

Clutch pedal snapped last night. A low battery (accidentally left an interior light on for several hours) forced me to "bump-start" the car in 2nd gear by rolling down a hill and popping the clutch. Started fine (sadly, I can admit I'm an old pro at bump-starting!), but the first time I hit the clutch pedal AFTER starting the car the pedal snapped where they all fail (from what I've read online) - at the "ear" connecting the pedal to the MC rod.

Is there any way to tell where the underlying cause of the failure lies? As I see it, the following are possibilities:

1. Weakened/fatigued clutch pedal alloy
2. Misalignment of pedal pivot shaft (the upper bushing looks to have cracks in it)
3. MC failed
4. SC failed
5. Clutch pressure plate failed

No hint of clutch problems (increased pressure, chatter, strange noises, etc.) were evident prior to this. Afterward, I started it in first and drove back to the garage with no problems (other than I had no clutch, of course). Love this reliable old POS and would like to keep it around. Looking for simple, straightforward solutions/suggestions to accomplish that.

Appreciate your wisdom and input, and thanks in advance for both.
Shaun
Current: 1989 200qa
Formers: 1986 4kcsq, 1986 GT CS, 1986 Vanagon

AudiSport4000

The clevis was the issue on my 4kq. Broke after replacement of the clutch master.

yodasfro

The failure is due to the poor casting of pot metal. See link replacement = not fun. I also replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders.
Could have something to do with a bad throwout bearing and or PP.<ul><li><a href="http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19210">http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19210</a</li></ul>

dwengi

And will develop fatigue cracks over time. It is the nature of the material. The question is not "if" it will fail but "when." Good engineers make the "when" a big number like 200 years.

Same problem the military is having with F-15s, one of which recently broke apart in flight due to aluminum fatigue.

The brake pedal is made of stamped steel. Steel has an "endurance limit" meaning if you keep the stresses below a certain level it will last forever without developing cracks.

Makes me wonder about new cars with aluminum control arms and such.

FiatLancia

Just read your saga on the motorgeek site. Sorry to hear/see that you had to go through it too. Considering you've BTDT, any tips before I crawl under the dash?

I see in your response to my other post that you did it without tool 3117. Can I ask what you did use? I also see that you took out the complete assembly (brackets, etc.) rather than just the pedal since you also replaced the hydraulic cylinders. I'm hoping to leave the M/C in place (not too many miles on it) and replace the pedal alone...from your experience, do you think that can be done (especially without the tool)?

Thanks!

FiatLancia

I had the option of aluminum replacement control arms for my "summer" car (BMW e32 735i 5-speed) and in the end opted for the steel. Good to hear that was a good decision. It is somewhat scary to think of what serious structural aluminum people rely on every day if something as simple as a clutch pedal can give way as they do in our Audis.

Thanks...

Shaun

P.S. Noticed your sig line about "wildebeest." I also have 1960 and 1968 International Scout 800s in the garage.

yodasfro

That being said if your think you have the room go for it.I used no tool to take the spring off. Once the clevis is off the MC is disconnected you can push the pedal down and the spring with fall off. I would recomend you disconnect the battery lots wires and relays down there.

FiatLancia

Apologies if I didn't address it enough or wasn't specific in my original post, but what I'm looking for is a test to see if the OTHER components are still okay.

Is there a way - prior to swapping in the good clutch pedal - for me to check the integrity of the pressure plate, throw-out bearing, clutch master, clutch slave, etc.?

The hydraulic cylinders (both master and slave) are fairly recent in the car so I'd really like to verify that they (and the other components) are okay to stay, swap the pedals, and move on. Can that be done? What about the pressure plate? A way to test it without a pedal?

Hate to go through all the back-twisting contortion and skinned fingers just to snap another - and my last - clutch pedal on its first push.

Thanks, guys...
Shaun

yodasfro

Not really. At least not without pulling the tranny.

dwengi

Nice, I thought I was the only sicko with a Binder fetish