Randolph

Mine is a cold start problem on an 87 5KCSTQ. Boxer, when I originally posted about this you said to pull codes so I did that and I also did the output tests today finally. As for pulling the codes I didn't get anything (probably didn't do it correctly though) but when I did the output tests the cold start valve is not operating. Everything else makes buzz's or clicks but when I get to the CSV it's quiet as a mouse and I did it a few times. I even put my hand on it and felt nothing nor did I smell gas. So, I'm thinking could this be causing all my cold start aggravation as it seems to not be working?

As a quick review of my problem, when it's in the single digits out the Audi will not start. Cranks but no start. As soon as it gets up to 20 or 25 degrees or warmer it fires up perfect. No vac leaks, fully tuned, fuel pump, accumulator is ok yada yada yada

Also, is it me or does anyone find it a bit annoying/funny to pull codes on these cars? blink pause blink pause. "gee was that a blink between the pause or was that a 2.5 second pause?" "Am I at the end of the codes sequence or should I put the fuse in again?" "I hope my battery doesn't go dead while doing this" "oh wait I came up with a code that's not even listed!" LOL

Anyway I was thinking it was the single wire temp sensor but now I'm thinking it's that CSV. Has anyone else had one of these go bad? TIA

R

AudiSport4000

What exactly triggers it? I honestly dont know, is it one of the pin type coolant sensors near the front of the head?
I wired my fault code stuff up in the 4ktq to work via switch from the drivers seat, so Ive never had an issue pulling codes.

When doing the tests with the car off I could clearly hear my CSV click, so if yours doesnt there is something wrong.

152MPH

during the output test, pull the wire harness connector off of the cold start injector and probe it for 12 volts. if you have power to it and it still doesn't actuate, then it's bad. You can also unbolt it from the intake, let it hang into a jar, cover the intake hole with duct tape and start the car cold, watching for accumulation of a half cup or so of fuel in the jar.

jurq

^^^Ding! Becoming familiar with a DMM and testing parts will save you lotsa $$$

boxerfan

well.. you'd better get familiar with pulling the codes. They help TONS when some issues crop up. Eliminates a heap of guess work. Try what AudiSport4000 did. That installed switch is a great thing to do.

Now... you didn't post any results from trying to pull the codes but what you did post seems a little like you pulled a 4444 meaning that all is well on the input side. Remember the memory is volatile and you need to run the car for a while to catch everything. If it doesn't start a good 10-15 second crank should catch a no start issue.

And, again seconding AS4000's response, if the output test made everything else dance but th eCSV.. you may have found your issue.

Check the volatges at the connector and check the wiring for shorts. HTH.

Randolph

ok jurg, what's a DMM? (I hope I don't get blasted for not knowing)

jurq

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask! Digital Multimeter.